634.016 

H32£ 

cop.3 


• 


uccessful 
praying 

A  text  book  on  spraying 
for  the  tfrower  OT  Fruit 

Price  $1.OO 


Published  by 

Horticultural  Department 
Hayes  Pump  C&  Planter  Company 

Galva,  Illinois 


Copyright  1918 


CONTENTS 


I  Page 

The  Importance  of  Spraying     -      9-17 

II 
Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases     -     18-37 

III 

Insects  and  Their  Control         -    38-67 

IV 

Diseases  and  Their  Control      -     68-99 

V 

Spraying  About  the  Farm     -     100-111 

VI 

How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees    -     112-116 

VII 
Shade  Tree  Spraying   -     -     -     125-127 


uccessful 
praying 


And  the 

Who  Wrote  It 


MR.  E.  H.  FAVOR 

Scientific  Horticulturist 


C0p2> 

THE  importance  of  spraying  —  its  vast  pos- 
sibilities and  profits  —  has  no  more  tireless 
booster  than  Mr.  E.  H.  Favor,  author  of 
this  manual. 

From  earliest  boyhood  Mr.  Favor  has  been 
delving  in  the  mysteries  of  plant  and  insect  life. 
He  is  today,  we  believe,  one  of  America's  lead- 
ing authorities  on  fruit  growing  and  on  the  life 
and  habits  of  pests  and  diseases  that  prey  upon 
the  tree,  the  foliage,  the  tender  buds  and  the 
fruit  itself. 

Mr.  Favor,  due  to  his  long  experience  and 
the  results  of  his  scientific  research,  has  for 
many  years  been  one  of  the  nation's  foremost 
champions  of  thorough  spraying.  As  editor 
of  a  leading  fruit  paper  he  preached  the  gospel 
of  spraying  to  growers  everywhere.  As  an  as- 
sociate with  two  state  experiment  stations 
further  opportunity  was  given  him. 

Since  joining  the  Horticultural  Department 
of  the  Hayes  Pump  &  Planter  Co.,  Mr.  Favor 
has  turned  his  priceless  experience  into  more 
practical  channels. 

One  evidence  is  this  Successful  Spraying 
Guide  —  which  is  in  our  estimation  a  most 
valuable  book  for  any  grower  to  own.  It  shows 
how  spraying  will  exterminate  the  vicious 
pests  and  diseases  which  ravage  our  orchards, 
groves  and  gardens.  It  tells  plainly  what  these 
pests  and  diseases  are,  when  and  where  they 
flourish  and  how  to  gain  control  over  them. 
It  tells  everything  needed  by  the  serious 


minded  grower  to  protect  his  crop  and  increase 
his  profits. 

Into  this  book  Mr.  Favor  has  injected  no 
romance.  It  is  too  severely  practical.  Yet  it 
represents  a  life  work  and  will  be  the  means 
of  saving  thousands  and  thousands  of  dollars 
for  growers. 

Mr.  Favor's  position  with  us  is  one  of  help- 
fulness. He  is  championing  the  great  fight 
against  the  bugs  and  insects  and  diseases 
which  rob  our  gardens  and  groves  of  millions 
of  dollars  in  fruit  each  year. 

Use  this  book.  Follow  its  advice.  If  there 
is  anything  further  you  wish  to  know,  "Ask 
Mr.  Favor."  He  is  always  glad  to  give  any 
earnest  man  the  benefit  of  his  experience  and 
study. 

HAYES  PUMP  &  PLANTER  CO. 
Galva,  Illinois 


IIIIIIIIIIIIIIBIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIiHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIBIIIIlii 

SPRAYING 

How  and  When  to  Spray" 
What  to  Use        Where  to  Obtain 


iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 

CHAPTER  I 
The  Importance  of  Spraying 


is  the  most  important  single  operation 
connected  with  the  growing  of  fruit.  Practical 
fruit  growers  everywhere  are  agreed  on  that 
point,  and  all  experiment  stations  are  emphatic  in  their 
approval.  Spraying  is  not  only  the  most  important  single 
operation  connected  with  the  growing  of  fruit,  but  a 
highly  necessary  operation  in  the  garden,  flower  bed, 
greenhouse,  poultry  yard,  dairy  or  farm  wherever  vermin 
must  be  exterminated  and  sanitary  conditions  main- 
tained. Because  of  the  greater  ease  and  smoothness  with 
which  all  liquids  may  be  applied,  it  is  possible  to  do  with 
a  sprayer  such  laborious  work  as  whitewashing  and  cold 
water  painting. 

Spraying  is  a  labor  saving,  profit  making  operation 
wherever  it  can  be  used.  But  it  is  in  the  orchard  that 
spraying  has  been  of  greater  service  and  for  which  the 
most  efficient  machines  are  devised. 

In  the  orchard,  spraying  is  the  most  necessary  of  all 
operations.  Every  conceivable  kind  of  good  care  may  be 
given  to  fruit  trees,  but  without  thorough  and  timely 
spraying,  to  prevent  the  ravages  of  insects  and  diseases, 
the  resulting  fruit  crop  will  be  bad,  and  the  health  of 


[  10  ]  The  Importance  of  Spraying 

the  tree  is  certain  to  decline.  Spraying  is  a  preventive 
of  insect  pests  and  fungous  diseases  and  not  a  cure  for 
them  after  they  have  become  established. 

Spraying  is  necessary  for  the  realization  of  the  great- 
est pleasure  and  profit  from  the  fruit  that  is  grown.  A 
well  sprayed  orchard,  meaning  a  well  protected  orchard, 
is  a  continual  delight,  as  well  as  a  profit-maker  for  the 
owner.  And  the  realization  of  this  pleasure  and  profit  is 
not  limited  to  the  person  who  grows  fruit  on  a  large  scale, 
but  also  to  the  man  who  has  but  a  single  fruit  tree  in  his 
back  yard. 

Spraying  is  insurance.  It  gives  protection.  You  in- 
sure your  residence  against  fire  and  tornado.  By  spray- 
ing you  just  as  certainly  insure  your  crops  against  insects 
and  diseases.  Fruit  growers  take  bigger  chances  each 
year  with  insects  and  diseases  in  their  orchards  than  they 
do  with  fire  in  their  buildings. 

The  Home  Orchard 

Everyone  who  has  one  or  more  fruit  trees  should 
spray — and  enjoy  to  the  utmost,  the  genuine  pleasure  and 
profit  that  comes  from  the  production  of  fruit  free  from 
insects  and  diseases.  This  is  not  simply  good  advice.  It 
is  common  sense.  For  example,  one  of  our  customers 
right  here  in  Galva,  111.,  has  two  cherry  trees  in  his  back 
yard.  These  trees  were  planted  a  good  many  years  ago, 
but  they  had  served  no  other  purpose  than  as  supports 
for  the  clothesline,  and  to  supply  shade  for  the  ham- 
mock on  hot  summer  afternoons.  As  fruit  producers 
they  were  a  delusion.  Their  heavy  bower  of  spring- 
time beauty  furnished  but  small  crops  of  fruit  that  was 
always  wormy  and  worthless.  Last  year  these  trees 
were  sprayed,  and  for  the  first  time  in  their  lives,  their 
snowy  white  blossoms  changed  into  luscious  red,  sweet 
cherries. 

The  owner,  quite  naturally,  was  proud  of  his  achieve- 
ment in  aiding  his  trees  to  produce  such  an  excellent 


The  Importance  of  Spraying  [  11  ] 

crop  of  cherries,  and  did  not  fail  to  take  all  of  his  friends 
and  neighbors  out  to  see  the  loads  of  fine  cherries.  The 
home  of  this  citizen  changed  from  a  home  in  which 
cherries  were  bought  from  the  grocery  store,  into  a  home 
where  the  larder  was  stocked  with  an  abundance  of  ele- 
gant, home-grown  cherries  picked  at  the  right  degree  of 
ripeness  and  preserved  at  once.  It  changed  from  a 
home  where  the  cherry  trees  in  the  back  yard  were 
simply  trees,  into  a  home  where  they  became  an  object 
of  beauty,  admiration  and  distinct  utility.  All  of  this 
came  about  just  because  the  trees  were  sprayed,  and  the 
fruit  given  a  chance  to  reach  full  maturity. 

A  few  trees  in  the  home  yard  are  just  as  well  worth 
taking  care  of  as  is  a  large  commercial  orchard.  To 
show  the  actual  dollars  and  cents  value  of  taking  care 
of  home  orchards,  the  Extension  Department  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Missouri,  in  1917,  arranged  a  series  of  demon- 
strations in  ten  Missouri  counties.  These  ten  orchards 
totalled  111-5  acres,  or  an  average  of  slightly  more  than 
one  acre  each,  and  with  fifty  trees  to  an  acre.  At  the 
close  of  the  season  after  the  fruit  had  all  been  picked  and 
measured,  and  after  having  deducted  the  cost  of  the 
spraying  chemicals  and  labor,  it  was  found  that  the  cash 
value  of  the  fruit  produced  averaged  just  $261.21  per 
acre.  None  of  these  orchards  had  ever  been  sprayed 
before  1917  and  none  of  them  had  been  profitable  in  any 
way. 

How  many  home  orchards  are  producing  crops  to 
the  value  of  $200.00  an  acre?  More  would  be  doing  so 
if  they  were  sprayed. 

The  Commercial  Orchard 

It  is  in  the  large  commercial  orchards  that  spraying 
has  made  its  greatest  headway  and  where  it  has  its 
greater  usefulness.  Numberless  instances  might  be  cited 
where  almost  unbelievable  profits  have  come  from 
orchards  that  are  regularly  and  systematically  sprayed. 


[  12  ]  The  Importance  of  Spraying 

Hundreds  of  orchards  where  the  crop  values  year  after 
year  range  from  $100  to  $500  an  acre  after  deducting  all 
operating  costs,  are  on  record.  In  every  state,  the  well 
sprayed  orchards  are  paying  big  profits,  bigger  in  fact, 
than  is  obtainable  from  any  other  crop  produced  on  large 
acreages  of  land.  In  fact,  government  reports  show  that 
the  average  income  per  acre  for  all  fruit  land  in  the  U.  S. 
amounts  to  $110  while  the  average  income  per  acre  for  all 
grain  lands  amounts  to  $13. 

Since  only  a  small  portion  of  the  commercial  orchards 
are  sprayed,  what  would  the  record  be  if  all  of  them  were 
thoroughly  sprayed? 

The  causes  for  low  crop  yields  are  insects  and  dis- 
ease. True  enough,  unseasonable  frosts  often  cause  im- 
mense losses,  but  so  far  as  the  national  yield  is  con- 
cerned, frost  plays  but  a  small  part  as  compared  to  in- 
sects and  disease,  since  the  latter  are  everywhere,  while 
frost  is  purely  local.  No  fruit  grower  can  afford  to  forego 
the  spraying  of  his  orchard  for  even  a  single  season.  It 
is  distinctly  a  money  loss  to  do  so,  and  the  health  and 
vigor  of  the  trees  is  sacrificed  as  well. 

Spraying  the  Vegetable  Garden 

Neither  can  spraying  be  dispensed  with  in  the  vege- 
table garden,  as  vegetables  are  infested  with  bugs  and 
diseases,  just  as  well  as  the  fruit  trees,  and  spraying 
vegetable  crops  for  the  control  of  these  diseases  gives 
protection  to  the  crops.  In  some  instances  spraying 
actually  increases  the  crop  yields  in  almost  as  large  a 
proportion  as  does  a  fertilizer  to  the  soil.  The  applica- 
tion of  bordeaux  mixture  to  potato  crops  materially  in- 
creases the  yield  whether  insects  or  diseases  are  present 
or  not.  The  Vermont  Experiment  Station  has  found  that 
during  a  20-year  period,  which  involved  all  possible  sea- 
sonal variations,  an  average  gain  of  105  bushels  of  pota- 
toes resulted  from  spraying  with  bordeaux  mixture. 
This  was  a  gain  of  64  per  cent  for  the  sprayed  potatoes 
as  compared  to  the  unsprayed. 


The  Importance  of  Spraying  [  13  ] 

Spraying  should  no  more  be  neglected  in  the  vegetable 
garden  than  it  is  in  the  orchard,  and  spraying  equipment 
and  materials  of  adequate  size  and  quantity  should  be 
provided  for  combating  the  pests  of  the  garden,  just  as 
well  as  in  the  largest  and  best  fruit  farms.  In  the  great 
majority  of  cases,  and  particularly  in  the  home  garden, 
this  will  not  require  the  use  of  large  and  expensive  ma- 
chines, but  rather  the  small  wheelbarrow,  knapsack  and 
bucket  pumps  that  may  easily  be  pushed  or  carried  from 
one  place  to  another. 

The  Purpose  of  Spraying 

Spraying  is  done  for  the  purpose  of  getting  more  sat- 
isfaction and  profit  from  the  crops,  t>y  controlling  the 
insect  and  fungous  pests  that  would  otherwise  damage 
and  reduce  the  yield.  Spraying  enables  the  fruit  grower 
to  make  more  money,  as  the  sprayed  crops  are  not  only 
of  better  quality  and  sell  for  more  money,  but  there  is 
actually  a  larger  quantity  of  merchantable  fruit.  It  pays 
to  spray.  It  pays  in  dollars  and  cents,  and  it  pays  in 
satisfaction.  Spraying  is  insurance  against  crop  losses. 

Orchards  that  are  regularly  and  systematically 
sprayed,  seldom  have  crop  losses,  unless  it  is  from  such 
things  as  storms  or  climatic  conditions.  This  is  for  the 
reason  that  all  parts  of  the  tree  can  work  to  better  advan- 
tage. A  healthy  tree,  like  a  healthy  man,  can  do  more 
work  and  harder  work  than  can  one  that  is  half  starved. 
An  unsprayed  tree  is  a  starved  tree,  not  because  there 
may  be  insufficient  fertility  in  the  soil,  but  because  the 
leaves  of  an  unsprayed  tree  cannot  function  as  they 
should. 

The  Leaves  Need  Protection 

The  leaves  of  a  tree  are  an  extremely  important  part 
of  the  plant.  It  is  within  the  leaves  that  the  sugar  and 
starch  is  manufactured  that  go  to  make  fruit,  fruit  buds, 
branches,  trunk  and  roots.  Therefore,  the  more  vigor- 
ous the  leaves,  the  more  work  they  can  do,  and  the  more 


[  14  ]  The  Importance  of  Spraying 

resistant  the  tree  can  become  against  the  ravages  of  pests 
of  every  sort  and  description. 

Spraying  assures  increased  profits,  not  only  in  the 
orchard,  but  in  the  garden,  and  even  on  the  farm.  Why? 
Because  it  enables  the  crop  to  mature  to  utmost  perfec- 
tion, with  the  result  that  higher  prices  will  be  received 
as  well  as  a  larger  quantity  produced  for  market.  In 
other  words,  spraying  puts  the  orchard  or  garden  on  a 
profitable  basis  so  that  it  produces  satisfaction  as  well 
as  profit.  The  net  profits  that  result  from  sprayed  or- 
chards will  run  right  around  $150  an  acre  per  year  as  an 
average  for  a  long  period  of  years. 

But  where  will  you  find  an  unsprayed  orchard  that 
will  produce  any  profit  at  all?  It  does  not  exist. 

Sprayed  trees  live  longer  than  unsprayed  ones,  as  the 
spraying  controls  the  insects  and  diseases  that  would 
otherwise  lessen  their  vitality.  This  better  health  enables 
the  tree  to  make  more  fruit  buds,  and  to  a  large  degree 
overcomes  the  habit  of  producing  a  very  large  crop  one 
year,  with  nothing  the  next. 

Spraying  improves  the  appearance  of  the  fruit.  It 
prevents  the  growth  of  fungous  diseases  which  mar  the 
skin  of  the  fruit,  and  it  kills  the  insects  which  puncture 
or  eat  and  otherwise  disfigure  it.  Good  looking  fruit 
sells  better  than  fruit  that  is  lopsided,  worm  eaten  or 
disfigured  through  the  growth  of  fungous  diseases.  This 
results  in  the  production  of  what  is  popularly  termed 
"quality"  fruit,  as  it  has  better  size,  and  finish.  The 
consumer  will  eat  quality  fruit  with  great  relish.  He  is 
much  more  willing  to  buy  such  fruit  in  the  first  place,  and 
will  come  back  for  more  of  the  same  kind. 

Trade  Marked  Fruit  Is  Sprayed 

It  is  this  factor  which  is  causing  fruit  growers  in 
some  localities  to  pack  their  fruit  under  a  trade-marked 
brand,  and  whenever  you  see  such  fruit,  you  can  depend 
upon  it  that  that  fruit  has  been  carefully  and  systemati- 


The  Importance  of  Spraying  [  15  ] 

cally  sprayed,  otherwise  it  would  be  unfit  to  market  in 
any  form.  The  trade-mark  would  have  no  commercial 
value  whatever,  if  it  stood  for  a  mixed  lot  of  fruit,  some 
of  which  was  good  and  much  of  which  was  bad. 

It  is  profit  that  the  fruit  grower  wants  from  his 
orchard.  It  is  the  profit  that  he  gets  from  the  sale  of  his 
fruit  that  enables  him  to  live,  so  the  more  profit  he  can 
get  from  his  orchard,  the  more  money  he  has  to  spend 
on  the  comforts  of  life.  The  profits  from  the  orchard 
are  increased  when  the  trees  are  sprayed,  and  the  more 
intelligence,  common  sense  and  efficient  work  that  is  put 
in  the  spraying  of  the  orchard,  the  bigger  will  be  the 
profits.  There  is  such  a  thing  as  simply  going  through 
the  motion  of  spraying,  or  in  making  the  application  at 
the  wrong  time.  But  such  cannot  be  called  good  spray- 
ing. It  is  only  a  waste  of  material  and  does  nothing 
toward  the  betterment  of  the  crop,  increasing  the  vigoi 
of  the  trees  or  of  making  more  money  from  the  orchard. 

How  to  Get  Results  From  Spraying 

There  are  three  requisites  for  good  spraying.  These 
are  (1)  right  materials,  (2)  applied  at  the  right  time, 
(3)  and  applied  in  the  right  way.  While  certain  more  or 
less  definite  rules  are  prescribed  for  spraying  the  orchard, 
the  more  the  fruit  grower  knows  about  the  habits  of  the 
insects  or  diseases  he  is  spraying  for,  the  effects  of  the 
spraying  material  he  is  using,  and  the  thoroughness  with 
which  the  materials  are  applied,  the  better  the  results 
he  can  expect  from  his  labors.  At  another  place  in  this 
little  book  we  give  brief  descriptions  of  some  of  the 
commonest  fruit  and  garden  pests  and  means  of  con- 
trolling them,  as  well  as  a  few  comments  about  the  mate- 
rials to  be  used. 

But  no  matter  what  material  is  used,  or  when  it  is 
used,  one  big  fact  should  stand  out  prominently  in  the 
mind  of  the  spray  man,  and  that  is  to  apply  it  thoroughly. 

Spraying  done  by  putting  a  little  of  the  mixture  here 
and  there  on  the  tree  is  worse  than  useless.  Don't  spray 


[  16  ]  The  Importance  of  Spraying 

at  all  unless  you  are  willing  to  do  it  right.  Wet  every 
leaf,  twig  and  fruit  on  the  tree,  and  wet  both  sides  of 
them.  Wet  the  foliage  on  the  topmost  branches  just  as 
thoroughly  and  as  evenly  as  you  do  the  part  of  the  tree 
that  is  easiest  for  you  to  reach.  Wet  the  foliage  on  the 
inside  of  the  tree,  and  on  the  lowermost  branches,  and 
do  so  with  care. 

There  is  a  tendency  for  many  spray  men  to  omit  wet- 
ting the  uppermost  branches,  and  those  that  are  on  the 
inside  of  large  trees.  This  is  especially  true  late  in  the  day 
when  their  arms  begin  to  tire  and  they  get  a  cramp  in 
the  back  of  their  neck.  But  the  best  fruit  is  on  the  top- 
most branches,  and  a  large  part  of  the  merchantable  crop 
is  on  the  inner  branches  where  there  is  a  tendency  for 
the  spray  man  to  believe  the  spray  will  drift  in  sufficiently 
to  cover  it.  Thorough  spraying  means  thoroughly  wet- 
ting every  part  of  the  tree,  and  of  doing  so  with  the  least 
possible  amount  of  spray  material. 

The  Fruit-Fog  Way 

The  first  requirement  for  thorough  spraying  is  an 
efficient  sprayer.  This  should  be  a  machine  that  will  pro- 
duce as  high  pressure  as  is  possible  for  its  size  and 
capacity.  All  of  Hayes  FRUIT-FOG  Sprayers,  size  for 
size,  produce  higher  pressure  than  any  other  make.  This 
high  pressure  is  essential  to  thorough  spraying,  since  it 
produces  a  more  finely  divided  mist  than  does  low  pres- 
sure. The  normal  working  pressure  for  Hayes  FRUIT- 
FOG  power  sprayers  is  300  pounds.  At  this  pressure  the 
spray  is  forced  through  the  nozzle  in  such  a  manner  that 
it  breaks  immediately  into  a  very  finely  divided  mist, 
almost  as  fine  as  fog — hence  the  name  FRUIT-FOG. 

Such  spray  is  the  ideal,  as  it  floats  and  filters  into  all 
of  the  cracks  and  crevices  and  makes  it  possible  to  actu- 
ally wet  the  foliage  completely  without  putting  on  so 
much  spray  as  to  drench  the  leaves. 

Drenching  should  always  be  avoided.  It  is  a  waste  of 
expensive  chemicals  to  apply  the  spray  so  heavily  that 


The  Importance  of  Spraying  [  17  ] 

the  liquid  will  drip  off.  It  also  causes  damage  because 
of  the  tendency  of  the  spray  to  collect  along  the  edges  of 
the  leaf  in  a  rather  large  drop,  where  it  brings  about  an 
injurious  action  commonly  called  "spray  burn."  Many 
orchardists  have  suffered  considerable  damage  to  their 
trees  from  this  spray  burn,  as  leaves  which  are  badly  in- 
jured drop  prematurely.  When  the  spray  is  applied  the 
FRUIT-FOG  way  there  is  little  or  no  possibility  for 
spray  burning  to  occur,  and  there  is  a  minimum  of  loss 
from  dripping. 

High  pressure  spraying,  "fruit-fogging,"  makes  it  pos- 
sible to  spray  the  orchard  more  thoroughly  and  to  do  it 
more  quickly  than  when  the  spraying  is  done  at  low  pres- 
sure. 


[  18  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

CHAPTER  II 
Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

HE  money  that  is  made  out  of  growing  fruit  of 
any  kind  comes  as  a  result  of  growing  fruit  of  the 
utmost  perfection.  The  more  nearly  perfect  the 
fruit  is  the  more  money  it  will  bring  on  the  market.  And 
because  of  this  it  behooves  the  fruit  grower  to  exercise 
the  greatest  amount  of  care  to  grow  good  fruit.  This 
means  that  he  must  control  the  pests  which  would  other- 
wise disfigure  the  fruit  as  well  as  cause  much  of  it  to 
drop  from  the  tree  before  reaching  maturity. 

There  are  two  distinct  groups  of  pests  which  cause 
injury  to  the  fruit  and  vegetables  and  which  may  be  con- 
trolled by  spraying.  The  first  group  is  insects,  the  sec- 
ond group  is  fungous  diseases.  Of  the  insects,  or  as  they 
are  more  popularly  called  "bugs,"  there  are  again  two 
distinct  kinds  or  classes,  (1)  those  which  suck  the  juices 
of  the  plant  in  much  the  same  way  as  a  mosquito  sucks 
blood,  and  (2)  those  which  chew  their  food,  as  a  rabbit 
or  horse  chews  grass.  These  two  classes  of  insects 
should  be  clearly  differentiated  in  the  minds  of  all  as 
different  methods  of  combating  each  class  must  be  used. 

There  is  a  third  group  of  orchard  and  garden  pests, 
but  which  cannot  readily  be  controlled  by  spraying. 
This  group  includes  those  insects  which  bore  into  the 
wood  of  the  tree  or  plant  and  which,  on  that  account 
are  out  of  reach  of  any  spray  that  might  be  applied.  It 
also  includes  those  diseases  which  are  caused  by  bac- 
teria, and  which  flourish  entirely  within  the  bark  or  skin 
of  the  plant,  where  they  also  are  out  of  reach  of  any 
spray  that  might  be  applied.  Further  consideration  of 
each  of  these  are  taken  up  under  their  appropriate  heads. 

Sucking  Insects 

Of  the  sucking  insects  the  orchardist,  vineyardist, 
vegetable  grower  and  florist  suffers  the  greatest  damage 
from  the  aphis,  or  "plant  lice,"  as  they  are  popularly 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [  19  ] 

called.  There  are  also  the  several  different  scale  insects, 
the  red  bug,  thrips  and  various  other  kinds  of  insects 
which  suck  the  sap  of  plants  and  which  are  described  in 
greater  detail  elsewhere  in  this  book. 

Since  these  insects  obtain  their  food  by  inserting  their 
beaks  into  the  bark  or  leaf  and  sucking  the  sap  of  the 
plant,  it  is  evident  that  the  ordinary  spraying  poisons  are 
of  little  avail.  The  insect  can  stick  its  beak  through  a 
thick  layer  of  the  poison  and  draw  its  food  without  the 
least  inconvenience  or  liability  to  injury.  On  that  ac- 
count, for  the  control  of  sucking  insects,  it  is  necessary 
to  actually  wet  the  bodies  of  the  insects  with  some  sub- 
stance that  will  irritate  or  choke  the  insect.  Such  insec- 
ticides are  called  "contact  insecticides,"  since  they  kill 
by  coming  in  contact  with  the  insect.  Of  these  materials 
there  are  several,  such  as  lime-sulphur,  kerosene  and 
paraffin  emulsion;  and  tobacco  preparations,  such  as 
Black  Leaf  40,  Nikoteen,  Aphine,  etc.,  soluble  oils  and 
certain  commercial  preparations  known  only  by  their 
trade  names. 

Fungous  Diseases 

Exceedingly  heavy  losses  every  year  are  occasioned 
to  all  fruit  and  vegetable  growers  who  do  not  spray  to 
control  fungous  diseases.  These  diseases  are  caused  by 
parasitic  plants,  called  "fungi."  Certain  forms  of  fungi 
are  familiar  to  all,  in  the  form  of  moulds  and  mushrooms. 
But  the  common  moulds  and  mushrooms  are  not  para- 
sitic, that  is,  they  do  not  live  upon  living  plants,  and  con- 
sequently are  not  harmful  to  our  growing  crops.  But 
there  are  countless  different  kinds  of  these  fungi  which 
thrive  upon  living  plants  and  cause  such  familiar  dis- 
eases as  apple  scab,  bitter  rot,  blotch ;  peach  scab,  brown 
rot  and  leaf  curl ;  grape  powdery  and  downy  mildews,  and 
many  different  kinds  of  rots  and  blights  among  vege- 
tables. 

But  it  has  been  found  through  scientific  investigation 
that  the  great  majority  of  the  troublesome  diseases  are 


[20]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

more  or  less  easily  controlled  by  spraying  the  plants 
before  the  diseases  appear  with  substances  commonly 
called  "fungicides."  Of  these  the  most  extensively  used 
are  bordeaux  mixture,  lime-sulphur  with  arsenate  of  lead, 
ammoniacal  copper  carbonate,  and  certain  commercial 
mixtures  that  are  known  under  trade  names. 

Bacterial  Diseases 

There  are  some  diseases  of  plants,  such  as  the  fire 
blight  or  twig  blight  of  fruit  trees,  that  cannot  be  con- 
trolled by  spraying,  since  the  disease  is  caused  by  bac- 
teria which  work  entirely  within  the  tissue  of  the  plant. 
The  only  remedy  in  such  cases  is  to  cut  out  the  infected 
part  of  the  plant  and  burn  it.  Careful  disinfection  of  the 
tool  with  which  the  cutting  is  done  should  be  observed 
in  order  that  the  germs  causing  the  disease  may  not  be 
carried  to  the  next  branch  that  is  to  be  removed.  Cor- 
rosive sublimate,  made  up  at  the  rate  of  one  part  to  1,000 
parts  of  water,  is  a  very  satisfactory  disinfectant.  This 
material  is  deadly  poison  and  should  be  used  with  care. 

Insecticides  for  Chewing  Insects 

Spray  materials  are  of  two  distinct  kinds  or  classes: 
(1)  those  used  for  insect  control  and  (2)  those  used  for 
the  control  of  fungous  diseases.  Of  the  first  class  there 
are  two  groups :  (a)  those  used  for  the  control  of  chew- 
ing insects,  such  as  codling  moth,  canker  worm,  etc.,  and 
(b)  those  used  for  the  control  of  sucking  insects,  like 
the  plant  lice  and  scale  insects.  Of  the  fungicides,  there 
are  many  kinds,  but  all  have  the  same  function,  the  con- 
trol of  fungous  diseases  such  as  scab,  rots,  mildews,  etc. 

Fumigation  is  resorted  to  in  some  instances  for  pro- 
tection against  insects,  especially  on  nursery  stock  and 
on  citrus  trees  in  California.  Fumigants  will  not  be 
treated  in  this  book. 

While  there  are  a  number  of  different  poisons  that 
might  be  used  for  the  control  of  chewing  insects,  the 
one  that  is  most  commonly  used  by  fruit  and  vegetable 


BLACK  KNOT 
ON  PLUK 


f-.f 


APPLE 
BLOTCH 
CANKERS 


ANTHRACN 

ON 
RASPBERRY* 


[  Page  21  ] 


CALYX  SPRAY 
FOR  CODDLIN 
MOTH 


THE  RIGHT  TIME 
TO   SPRAY 


CLUSTER  BUD  OR. 
PINK  SPRAY  FOR.  ^2 
SCAB 


[  Page  22  ] 


APPLES 
INJURED 
BY  APHIS 


CODLING 
MOTH 
COCOONS 


SNOW- BALL 
LEAVES  CURLED 
BY  APHIS 


[  Page  23  ] 


SAN  JOSE  SCALE  (Enlarged) 


SCURFY  SCALE  (Enlarged) 


OYSTER  SHELL  SCALE  (Enlarged) 


[  Page  24  ] 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [25] 

growers  is  arsenate  of  lead.  This  is  now  on  the  market 
in  the  form  of  a  white,  dry  powder  and  also  as  a  white 
paste  that  has  much  the  same  appearance  as  white  lead 
paint.  Arsenate  of  lead  may  be  mixed  with  lime-sulphur 
or  with  bordeaux  mixture  and  applied  at  the  same  time. 
But  arsenate  of  lead  should  not  be  mixed  with  any  of 
the  oil  sprays. 

In  spraying,  arsenate  of  lead  is  mixed  with  water  or 
lime-sulphur  or  bordeaux  mixture  at  the  rate  of  from 
2  to  4  pounds  of  paste  to  50  gallons  of  spray  solution. 
Just  half  the  quantity  is  required  when  the  powdered 
arsenate  of  lead  is  used.  For  small  quantities  of  spray, 
use  \Y2  level  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered,  or  2  of  paste, 
to  1  gallon  of  water. 

Calcium  arsenate  (arsenate  of  lime) :  This  is  a  new 
poison,  which  on  account  of  being  cheaper  than  arsenate 
of  lead  is  being  experimented  with  as  a  substitute.  While 
it  has  given  satisfactory  results  in  the  control  of  chew- 
ing insects,  it  has  caused  too  much  injury  to  the  foliage 
of  the  plants  to  which  it  has  been  applied  to  be  wholly 
satisfactory.  It  should  be  used  only  upon  the  approval 
or  direction  of  your  state  experiment  station. 

Paris  green :  The  old  standard  insecticide  for  orchard 
and  potato  spraying,  but  rapidly  going  out  of  use  because 
of  the  injury  to  the  foliage  which  results  from  its  use 
and  because  it  cannot  be  combined  with  dilute  lime- 
sulphur  or  self-boiled  lime-sulphur.  It  is  used  at  the 
rate  of  4  ounces  to  50  gallons  of  water  or  bordeaux  mix- 
ture. 

Insecticides  for  Sucking  Insects 

The  principal  insecticide  for  sucking  insects  is  lime- 
sulphur.  This  is  obtainable  on  the  market  in  concen- 
trated form,  both  as  a  liquid  and  as  a  powder,  and  for 
use  in  the  orchard  needs  only  to  be  diluted  with  the 
proper  quantity  of  water.  Lime-sulphur  may  also  be 
made  up  at  home,  and  under  some  conditions  this  is  a 


[  26  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

more  economical  way  than  to  buy  the  commercial  mate- 
rial. If  you  desire  to  make  your  own  lime-sulphur,  you 
will  make  it  best  if  you  will  follow  the  directions  that 
are  prescribed  by  your  own  state  experiment  station,  as 
they  have  devised  a  formula  that  will  enable  you  to  make 
use  of  the  lime  that  is  on  the  market  in  your  own  state. 
With  but  slight  variations  in  the  quantities  of  materials, 
the  various  formulas  for  lime-sulphur  are  similar  to  the 
following,  which  will  make  a  concentrated  solution  that 
must  be  diluted  with  water  before  it  may  be  used : 

CONCENTRATED  LIME-SULPHUR 

50  pounds  quick  lime, 
100  pounds  sulphur, 
50  gallons  water. 

Use  a  good  grade  of  high  calcium  quick  lime.  Hy- 
drated  lime  may  also  be  used,  but  it  should  be  a  high 
calcium  lime,  and  at  least  20  per  cent  more  should  be 
used  than  in  the  case  of  quick  lime.  A  cauldron  or  other 
cooking  vessel  of  sufficient  size  to  hold  the  entire  quan- 
tity of  liquid  is  necessary,  and  this  should  be  placed 
where  a  fire  can  be  built  under  it  so  as  to  boil  the  solu- 
tion. Place  the  required  quantity  of  water  in  the  cook- 
ing vessel,  and  with  a  stick  measure  the  exact  height  of 
the  water,  in  order  that  additional  water  may  be  added 
to  make  up  for  that  which  is  lost  through  evaporation. 
Bring  the  water  to  a  boil;  add  the  lime  and  then  the 
sulphur.  Stir  vigorously  until  the  lime  has  slaked,  and 
stir  more  or  less  continuously  throughout  the  boiling 
period  of  50  to  60  minutes.  Restore  the  water  lost  by 
evaporation,  using  boiling  water  if  possible.  When  the 
cooking  has  finished,  draw  off  the  liquid  into  a  tight 
barrel  for  storage,  running  it  into  the  barrel  through  a 
30-mesh  strainer.  Lime  sulphur  made  in  this  manner 
will  have  a  density  of  about  24  to  28  degrees,  and  for  use 
in  the  orchard  should  be  diluted  according  to  the  dilution 
table. 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [  27  ] 

Diluting  Lime- Sulphur 

To  obtain  proper  dilution  a  special  instrument  called 
a  "hydrometer"  is  absolutely  necessary.  Such  an  in- 
strument may  be  obtained  from  druggists  or  from  most 
of  the  dealers  in  spray  materials,  or  from  certain  adver- 
tisers in  fruit  publications.  Usually  they  cost  about  $1.00, 
and  are  well  worth  the  money.  By  all  means  get  a 
hydrometer  and  dilute  your  lime-sulphur  according  to  it. 
The  following  table  gives  the  necessary  quantities  of 
water  for  a  given  quantity  of  lime-sulphur  of  various 
strengths : 

DILUTION  TABLE  FOR  LIME-SULPHUR 


No.  gals,  lime-sulphur  to  make  50  gals,  spray  solution. 

Degrees 

Specific 

Summer 

Winter 

Beaume 

gravity 

strength 

strength 

36 

1.330 

W 

554 

35 

1,318 

53/4 

34 

1.306 

154 

6 

33 

1.295 

IX 

654 

32 

1.283 

6^2 

31 

1.272 

\yz 

634 

30 

1.261 

134 

7 

29 

1.250 

134 

7/4 

28 

1.239 

7/4 

27 

1.229 

2 

8 

26 

1.218 

2 

854 

25 

1.208 

2 

83/4 

24 

1.198 

2/4 

9/4 

23 

1.188 

VA 

93/4 

22 

1.179 

VA 

21 

1.169 

11 

20 

1.160 

214 

125^ 

Lime-sulphur  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the 
present  day  spray  materials,  as  it  serves  both  as  an  in- 
secticide for  the  control  of  San  Jose  scale  and  other  scale 
insects,  and  as  a  fungicide,  especially  when  combined 
with  lead  arsenate. 

When  only  small  quantities  of  lime-sulphur  are  re- 
quired use  1  pint  of  commercial  lime-sulphur  to  1  gallon 


[  28  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

of  water  for  dormant  spraying  or  ^2  cup  to  1  gallon  of 
water  for  summer  applications. 

Nicotine  or  Tobacco  Extract 

This  is  obtainable  on  the  market  under  trade  names 
such  as  Black  Leaf  40,  Nikoteen,  Aphine,  etc.  Such  ma- 
terials are  to  be  preferred  to  a  home-made  extract,  as 
the  strength  is  always  uniform.  Such  commercial  nico- 
tine preparations  as  Black  Leaf  40  contain  40  per  cent 
of  nicotine  sulphate,  and  for  use  in  controlling  such  suck- 
ing insects  as  apple  aphis,  use  54  Pmt  Black  Leaf  40 
with  100  gallons  of  water  in  which  3  to  5  pounds  of  soap 
have  been  dissolved.  Nicotine  sulphate  may  be  added  to 
other  spray  materials,  such  as  lime-sulphur  and  arsenate 
of  lead,  but  when  this  combination  is  made,  the  soap 
should  be  omitted.  It  is  a  distinct  advantage  to  mix  the 
nicotine  sulphate  with  lime-sulphur  and  arsenate  of  lead 
for  certain  applications,  as  the  resulting  combination 
serves  to  control  both  sucking  and  chewing  insects  and 
fungi. 

Kerosene  Emulsion 

Kerosene    2    gallons 

Fish-oil  soap y2  pound 

Soft  water 1    gallon 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  a  gallon  of  boiling  water.  Re- 
move the  vessel  from  the  stove  and  add  the  kerosene, 
then  stir  or  churn  the  mixture  vigorously  for  several 
minutes  until  it  has  formed  a  creamy  mass.  The  best 
way  to  do  this  is  by  means  of  a  small  spray  pump,  pump- 
ing the  mixture  back  into  itself.  This  mixture  should 
not  be  used  when  there  is  the  least  separation  of  oil,  as 
injury  is  quite  certain  to  result.  When  the  mixture  is 
properly  made,  it  gives  fairly  satisfactory  results  against 
plant  lice  when  one  gallon  of  the  mixture  is  added  to  P 
gallons  of  water.  Nicotine  sulphate  is  a  better  material 
than  kerosene  emulsion,  as  it  is  more  effective  and  musfe 
less  liable  to  cause  injury. 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [29] 

For  small  quantities,  dissolve  a  1-inch  cube  of  laun- 
dry soap  in  a  half  pint  of  boiling  water.  Add  1  pint  of 
kerosene  and  shake  in  a  2-quart  fruit  jar  until  thoroughly 
mixed.  This  is  sufficient  for  3  gallons  of  spray  ready  for 
use. 

Carbolic  Acid  Emulsion 

Fish-oil  soap 15  pounds 

Crude  carbolic  acid 1  pint 

Water   100  gallons 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  add 
the  carbolic  acid  in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  meanwhile 
stirring  vigorously.  When  mixed  this  material  is  ready 
for  use,  and  is  very  efficient  for  the  control  of  aphis  on 
fruit  trees.  Slight,  but  unimportant  injury  to  the  apple 
foliage  may  result  from  the  use  of  this  mixture. 

Soap 

Home-made  soap,  good  laundry  soap  and  whale  oil  or 
fish  oil  soaps  are  used  in  combating  plant  lice,  and  under 
many  conditions  are  quite  effective.  The  soap  is  dis- 
solved in  hot  water  at  the  rate  of  1  pound  of  soap  to  each 
5  or  10  gallons  of  water.  This  strength  is  effective  against 
soft  bodied  insects. 

Poisoned  Bran  Mash 

Mix  one  ounce  of  paris  green  with  two  pounds  of 
wheat  bran ;  then  mix  enough  syrup  with  water  to  make 
a  thin  sweet  liquid  and  add  enough  to  the  bran  to  make 
a  thick  paste.  Sprinkle  about  the  plants  to  be  protected 
from  cutworms,  grasshoppers,  etc. 

Soluble  Oils 

On  the  market  there  are  certain  preparations  of  oils 
or  petroleum  that  are  intended  especially  for  the  control 
of  insects  on  citrus  fruits  and  of  scale  insects  on  apples, 
peaches,  pears,  etc.  They  are  mixed  with  water  for  use, 
and  are  easily  applied  and  effective  for  their  purpose. 
These  soluble  oil  sprays  have  a  distinct  advantage  over 
lime-sulphur  in  that  they  spread  further  and  will  "creep" 


[  30  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

into  cracks  and  crevices  that  are  not  easily  penetrated  by 
lime-sulphur.  In  addition  the  soluble  oil  sprays  are  espe- 
cially effective  in  destroying  the  eggs  of  the  fruit  tree 
leaf-roller.  On  deciduous  fruits,  soluble  oil  sprays  should 
be  used  only  on  dormant  trees  when  there  is  no  danger  of 
freezing. 

Fungicides 

Bordeaux  mixture  and  lime-sulphur  are  the  most  im- 
portant fungicides  and  are  used  far  more  extensively  than 
all  of  the  others.  But  of  these  other  fungicides,  the  most 
important  are  self-boiled  lime-sulphur,  ammoniacal  cop- 
per carbonate,  finely  ground  sulphur,  corrosive  sublimate 
and  formaldehyde. 

Bordeaux  Mixture 

Modern  spraying  had  its  origin  through  the  acci- 
dental discovery  of  the  mixture  now  known  as  "Bor- 
deaux." This  is  made  by  mixing  dilute  solution  of  cop- 
per sulphate  (bluestone)  with  dilute  milk  of  lime.  The 
proportions  vary  all  the  way  from  3  pounds  of  copper  sul- 
phate and  3  pounds  of  lime  to  50  gallons  of  water,  up  to 
6  or  8  pounds  of  the  chemicals  to  50  gallons  of  water. 
In  referring  to  the  different  proportions,  it  has  become 
customary  to  speak  of  Bordeaux  as  being  made  accord- 
ing to  the  3-3-50  formula,  4-4-50  formula  or  4-6-50,  ac- 
cording to  whether  3,  4  or  6  pounds  of  the  chemicals  are 
mixed  with  50  gallons  of  water.  When  bordeaux  is 
spoken  of  in  this  manner,  the  first  figure  refers  to  the 
quantity  of  copper  sulphate,  the  second  figure  to  the 
quantity  of  lime  and  the  third  figure  to  the  quantity  of 
water. 

To  make  bordeaux  mixture,  it  is  most  convenient  to 
make  up  a  stock  solution  of  copper  sulphate,  by  dissolv- 
ing the  crystals  in  water  at  the  rate  of  1  pound  to  1  gal- 
lon. This  is  most  quickly  done  by  suspending  the  crys- 
tals in  a  sack  just  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water.  If 
they  are  dropped  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  they  will 
dissolve  much  less  rapidly. 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [  31  ] 

A  stock  mixture  of  lime  should  be  made  up  in  a 
similar  manner,  and  then  a  measure  of  the  one  may  be 
mixed  with  a  measure  of  the  other  for  the  necessary 
quantity  of  water.  Measuring  the  liquid  in  this  manner 
is  more  rapid  than  when  each  must  be  weighed.  Hy- 
drated  lime  may  be  used  instead  of  quick  lime,  but  a 
larger  quantity  should  be  used  to  make  allowance  for 
the  water  contained  in  the  hydrated  lime.  But  which- 
ever is  used,  be  sure  that  it  is  a  high  calcium  lime.  Air- 
slaked  lime  should  never  be  used. 

In  preparing  bordeaux  mixture  for  spraying,  dilute 
the  necessary  quantities  of  each  stock  solution  with  half 
of  the  volume  of  water  needed  to  fill  the  tank,  and  then 
run  these  two  dilute  mixtures  together  at  the  same  time 
into  the  spray  tank.  This  necessitates  the  use  of  two 
tanks,  each  of  which  is  capable  of  holding  at  least  one- 
half  of  the  volume  of  the  spray  tank. 

Another  method  is  to  fill  the  spray  tank  three-fourths 
full  of  water,  pour  in  the  amount  of  copper  sulphate  stock 
solution  required  for  a  tank  full  of  spray.  Start  the 
agitator  and  then  slowly  pour  in  the  necessary  amount 
of  milk  of  lime.  Then  complete  the  filling  of  the  tank 
with  water. 

When  bordeaux  mixture  is  made  in  either  of  these 
ways,  a  sky  blue  mixture  will  result,  and  it  is  ready  for 
applying  to  the  trees.  Freshly  made  bordeaux  mixture 
has  great  adhesive  properties  and  should  be  used  only 
when  fresh.  Should  any  surplus  remain  when  you  have 
finished  spraying,  dump  it  out,  as  it  is  useless  after  it  has 
stood  for  a  few  hours,  even  though  it  may  have  all  ap- 
pearances of  being  perfectly  good. 

Where  only  a  small  quantity  of  bordeaux  mixture  is 
needed,  use  3  ounces  copper  sulphate,  3  ounces  of  lump 
or  hydrated  lime  and  2  gallons  of  water.  Dissolve  both 
copper  sulphate  and  lime  in  separate  vessels  and  pour 
slowly  and  at  the  same  time  into  a  third.  It  is  then  ready 
for  use. 


[  32  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

Another  thing,  when  you  have  finished  spraying  with 
bordeaux  mixture  or  lime-sulphur,  be  sure  to  wash  out 
the  sprayer  thoroughly.  Run  a  few  buckets  of  clean 
water  through  the  spray  pump,  so  as  to  wash  out  all  of 
the  spray  mixture.  Also  pour  some  clean  water  in  the 
spray  tank  and  wash  out  all  of  the  sediment  that  may 
have  settled  to  the  bottom.  This  little  precaution  at  the 
end  of  each  day's  spraying  will  save  a  lot  of  time  from 
stopped-up  nozzles,  "stuck"  valves  and  kindred  ailments 
of  a  sprayer. 

Lime-Sulphur 

Commercial  or  home-made  lime-sulphur  is  an  excel- 
lent fungicide,  and  in  commercial  orchard  spraying  has 
largely  replaced  bordeaux  mixture  since  it  does  not  cause 
the  burning  and  defacement  of  the  foliage  and  fruit  that 
frequently  results  from  the  use  of  bordeaux  mixture. 

Under  some  conditions  it  is  better  to  use  lime-sulphur 
during  cool,  damp  weather  and  bordeaux  mixture  when 
the  weather  is  hot  and  dry.  Less  burning  of  fruit  and 
foliage  will  then  occur. 

As  a  fungicide,  the  efficiency  of  lime-sulphur  is  in- 
creased by  the  addition  of  arsenate  of  lead,  and  since 
fungicides  are  much  more  necessary  when  the  trees  are 
in  foliage  than  when  in  the  dormant  stage,  the  addition 
of  arsenate  of  lead  has  the  additional  virtue  of  control- 
ling the  chewing  insects. 

For  summer  spraying,  lime-sulphur  is  diluted  much 
more  than  for  dormant  spraying,  the  rate  depending  upon 
the  strength  of  the  concentrated  mixture  that  is  used. 
The  dilution  table  given  on  page  27  indicates  the  amount 
of  lime-sulphur  to  use  for  50  gallons  of  water,  and  it  will 
be  much  better  to  test  the  strength  of  the  stock  solution 
and  dilute  accordingly,  as  otherwise  the  resulting  spray 
mixture  may  be  altogether  too  strong,  or  not  strong 
enough. 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [333 

Self-Boiled  Lime-Sulphur 

This  is  made  by  putting  8  pounds  of  freshly  slaked 
quick  lime  in  a  barrel,  to  which  is  added  a  small  quan- 
tity of  water  to  start  slaking.  Eight  pounds  of  sifted 
sulphur  is  then  slowly  added  to  the  slaking  lime,  and 
more  water  is  added  from  time  to  time  to  complete  the 
slaking.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  to  not  add  too 
much  water  and  "drown"  the  lime.  The  slaking  mixture 
must  be  stirred  constantly  to  bring  about  a  thorough  dis- 
tribution of  the  sulphur  and  as  soon  as  the  lime  has  all 
slaked,  which  will  be  in  five  or  ten  minutes,  the  mixture 
is  ready  to  run  through  a  20-mesh  sieve  into  the  sprayer 
tank.  This  material  is  merely  a  mechanical  mixture  of 
lime  and  sulphur  and  will  have  but  little  of  the  sulphur 
in  solution.  It  is  especially  adapted  for  the  spraying  of 
peaches  and  plums  in  foliage,  as  it  causes  none  of  the 
burning  that  frequently  results  from  the  use  of  lime- 
sulphur  or  bordeaux. 

Ammoniacal  Copper  Carbonate 

This  is  made  by  mixing  5  ounces  of  carbonate  of 
copper  in  3  ounces  of  strong  ammonia  and  diluting  with 
50  gallons  of  water.  The  ammonia  is  diluted  with  from 
7  to  8  parts  of  water.  The  copper  carbonate  is  made  into 
a  paste  with  a  little  water  and  then  added  to  the  dilute 
ammonia  and  stirred  until  it  dissolves.  The  whole  is 
then  poured  into  50  gallons  of  water  and  is  ready  for  use. 
As  the  mixture  loses  strength  on  standing  it  should  be 
made  fresh  each  time  it  is  needed.  The  service  of  this 
spray  material  is  less  effective  than  bordeaux  mixture, 
but  it  is  used  in  place  of  bordeaux  to  avoid  the  staining 
of  the  fruit  with  the  sediment  of  bordeaux  just  before 
the  fruits  or  vegetables  are  ready  for  market. 

Sulphur 

Finely  ground  sulphur  has  again  come  into  popularity 
as  a  fungicide  and  forms  the  basis  of  the  dusts  that  are 
serviceable  for  some  purposes.  It  is  chiefly  useful  for 


[  34  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

the  control  of  certain  fungi  and  is  applied  by  sprinkling 
or  dusting  over  the  affected  leaves.  When  mixed  with 
lime  and  drilled  in  the  row  with  onion  seed,  it  has  given 
satisfactory  results  in  the  control  of  onion  smut. 

Potassium  Sulphide 

For  mildew  on  gooseberries,  potassium  sulphide  has 
had  its  greatest  popularity,  although  the  present  high 
price  makes  it  less  desirable  than  any  of  the  other  stand- 
ard fungicides.  Potassium  sulphide  (liver  of  sulphur) 
is  dissolved  in  water  at  the  rate  of  about  3  ounces  to  10 
gallons,  and  should  be  used  immediately  as  it  loses 
strength  on  standing. 

Resin  Sticker 

The  foliage  of  some  plants,  such  as  onions  and  cab- 
bage, is  hard  to  wet,  and  on  that  account  spray  mixtures 
as  ordinarily  applied  will  run  off  immediately.  But 
when  resin  sticker  is  used,  the  spray  will  not  only  stick, 
as  it  is  applied,  but  it  will  stay  there.  This  sticker  is 
made  by  mixing  2  pounds  of  resin,  1  pound  of  sal  soda 
and  1  gallon  of  water.  This  mixture  should  be  boiled  for 
1  or  iyz  hours,  until  it  has  become  of  a  clear  brown  color. 
The  above  quantity  is  sufficient  for  a  barrel  of  bordeaux 
mixture. 

How  Much  Spray  Material  Is  Needed 

That  is  a  question  that  everyone  asks  himself  the 
first  time  he  buys  spray  materials  for  his  orchard  and 
garden,  and  it  is  a  difficult  one  to  estimate  with  any 
degree  of  certainty,  as  it  v/ill  depend  altogether  on  the 
kind  of  plants,  their  size,  age,  condition,  number  of  appli- 
cations and  the  degree  of  thoroughness  with  which  the 
spraying  is  done. 

In  the  apple  orchard  where  the  trees  are  of  good 
bearing  age,  that  is,  from  15  to  20  years  old,  it  is  safe  to 
figure  on  approximately  one  pound  of  arsenate  of  lead 
per  tree  for  the  season;  with  from  one-third  to  one-half 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [35] 

gallons  of  commercial  lime-sulphur,  and  with  one  pound 
of  copper  sulphate  as  an  average  for  one  application  of 
bordeaux  mixture  to  each  six  trees.  Where  bordeaux 
mixture  is  to  be  used  in  place  of  lime-sulphur  applica- 
tion, the  lime-sulphur  requirements  will  be  lessened 
approximately  one-fourth  per  application.  When  aphis 
are  to  be  fought,  figure  on  about  one  pint  of  40  per  cent 
nicotine  sulphate  for  each  15  or  20  trees.  In  the  Middle 
West  the  spraying  practices  are  such  that  apple  trees  of 
good  bearing  age  can  be  sprayed  four  times  during  the 
summer  with  a  total  of  approximately  18  gallons  of  spray. 
By  taking  that  as  a  basis,  an  estimate  of  reasonable  accu- 
racy will  enable  an  apple  grower  to  arrive  at  his  probable 
needs  in  spraying  chemicals. 

With  the  small  gardener  it  is  less  certain  as  to  how 
much  spray  material  will  be  needed.  Ten  gallons  of 
spray  will  make  one  good  application  to  a  garden  25  by 
100  feet  in  size.  A  one-quart  atomizer,  such  as  Hayes 
Perfect  or  Matchless,  will  hold  enough  spray  for  one 
application  to  about  thirty  hills  of  potatoes. 

Diseases  and  Insects  Not  Controlled  by  Spraying 

Spraying  does  not  give  relief  from  all  pests  that  attack 
plants,  as  there  are  certain  insects,  such  as  the  borers, 
and  certain  diseases,  such  as  the  bacterial  blights,  that 
cannot  be  readily  controlled  by  spraying. 

Borers 

Fruit  and  shade  trees  of  all  kinds  frequently  are 
attacked  by  boring  insects,  which,  in  the  grub  stage,  tun- 
nel through  the  wood  of  the  tree  and  cause  more  or  less 
serious  injury.  In  the  case  of  the  peach  tree,  the  borer 
is  about  the  worst  insect  to  be  combated.  There  is  no 
universal  remedy  for  borers,  no  matter  what  kind  it  may 
be  or  what  sort  of  tree  is  attacked.  The  only  method  of 
control  that  is  of  much  satisfaction,  particularly  in  apple 
trees,  is  to  dig  the  borer  out  after  it  has  gained  entrance. 
The  position  of  the  borer  usually  can  be  quite  easily 


[  36  ]  Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases 

located  by  the  appearance  of  its  castings  or  a  drop  of 
wax  at  the  entrance  to  its  tunnel.  Sometimes  the  bark  is 
quite  discolored  immediately  over  the  tunnel.  Cut  away 
the  bark  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  when  the  borer  has  gone 
too  far  into  the  wood  to  reach  easily  by  cutting,  poke  a 
small  soft  wire  into  its  burrow.  If  the  wire  is  slightly 
barbed  at  the  end,  usually  the  borer  can  be  pulled  out. 

Painting  the  trunks  of  the  trees  with  a  carbolic  acid- 
whitewash  in  early  summer,  before  the  eggs  are  depos- 
ited, aids  some  in  preventing  the  borer.  Mechanical 
protectors  of  various  kinds  offered  on  the  market  like- 
wise give  some  protection.  But  because  of  the  habit  of 
borers,  no  process  has  yet  been  devised  that  will  assure 
more  than  a  partial  protection,  with  the  result  that  there 
must  be  more  or  less  hand  digging  of  the  borers. 

Spraying  for  Peach  Borers 

In  the  case  of  the  peach  borer,  the  West  Virginia 
experiment  station  has  found  that  where  the  soil  is  dug 
away  from  the  base  of  the  tree  to  a  depth  of  three  or  four 
inches  in  late  fall,  and  the  trunk  of  the  tree  then  sprayed 
with  a  soluble  oil  spray,  such  as  the  commercial  brands 
like  "scalecide,"  or  the  home-made  emulsions,  a  very  high 
percentage  of  the  borers  can  be  killed.  These  spray  mix- 
tures "creep"  over  the  surface  to  which  they  are  applied, 
and  hence  penetrate  the  borer  tunnels  better  than  other 
spray  mixtures.  Where  the  applications  are  made  in  late 
fall  or  early  winter,  the  borers  are  young  and  working 
close  to  the  surface  of  the  bark,  so  that  penetration  is 
comparatively  easy.  We  recommend  this  method  of 
combating  the  peach  tree  borer  to  all  of  our  readers  for 
trial,  and  will  be  glad  to  have  reports  of  your  experience. 

Bacterial  Blights 

Apple  and  pear  trees  suffer  great  injury  from  a  bac- 
terial blight,  sometimes  called  "fire  blight"  or  "twig 
blight."  This  disease  manifests  itself  in  early  spring, 


Fighting  Pests  and  Diseases  [  37  ] 

shortly  after  bloom,  by  the  browning  of  the  foliage,  giv- 
ing the  affected  trees  much  the  same  appearance  as  if  they 
had  been  singed  by  fire.  The  disease  is  caused  by  a 
germ,  which  gains  entrance  to  the  tender  growing  tissue 
through  the  puncture  of  sucking  insects  which  have 
obtained  some  of  the  disease  germs  from  an  over-winter- 
ing canker;  or  through  the  blossoms  where  nectar  seek- 
ing insects  have  left  some  of  the  germs. 

This  blight  disease  cannot  be  cured  by  any  known 
spraying  method,  and  the  only  effective  means  of  con- 
trol is  to  keep  it  cut  out.  The  knife  or  pruning  tool  should 
be  sterilized  with  corrosive  sublimate,  made  up  at  the  rate 
of  1  part  to  1,000  parts  of  water,  after  making  each  cut. 
The  pruned  off  twigs  or  branches  should  be  immediately 
burned. 


[  38  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

CHAPTER  III 
Insects  and  Their  Control 


Those  Affecting  the  Apple 

Codling  Moth 

HE  pinkish  grub  or  caterpillar  of  the  codling  moth 
is  the  chief  cause  of  wormy  apples.  It  hatches 
from  an  egg  deposited  by  a  small,  dusky  brown 
moth  on  the  leaves  and  fruit  rather  early  in  the  summer. 
The  great  majority  of  the  first  brood  enter  the  apple  at 
the  calyx  end  and  because  of  this  many  suppose  the  eggs 
are  actually  deposited  in  the  blossom  end.  This  is  an 
error,  as  the  eggs  are  deposited  on  the  leaves  and  some- 
times on  the  fruit,  and  the  minute  young  grub  crawls  into 
the  calyx  end  of  the  apple  where  it  begins  its  destructive 
work. 

CONTROL:  Because  of  the  habit  of  the  insect  to  seek 
the  blossom  end  of  the  apple,  it  is  desirable  to  spray  the 
trees  with  a  poison  at  such  time  as  the  calyx  may  be  filled 
with  poison.  The  time  for  this  is  immediately  after  the  petals 
fall.  Use  arsenate  of  lead  at  the  rate  of  2  pounds  to  50  gal- 
lons of  spray  liquid.  This  application  should  be  made  before 
the  calyx  closes  over  the  blossom  end,  which  will  occur  within 
a  week  or  ten  days  after  the  petals  drop  from  the  blossoms. 

As  there  are  two  broods  of  codling  moths  throughout  most 
of  the  country,  a  second  brood  of  worms  can  be  expected  dur- 
ing the  middle  of  the  summer,  and  in  southern  localities  there 
may  be  a  partial  third  brood.  These  later  broods  enter  the 
apple  at  the  side,  giving  rise  to  the  popular  term  "side  worms." 
Mid-summer  applications  of  poison  will  prevent  the  entrance 
of  these  later  broods. 

Codling  moths  over-winter  both  as  larvae  and  pupae,  and 
transform  to  moths  shortly  after  apples  bloom  in  the  spring. 
The  moths  live  an  average  of  ten  days;  the  first  brood  of 
worms  live  in  the  apple  an  average  of  three  weeks  to  a  month; 
about  a  week  is  spent  between  leaving  the  apple  and  the  appear- 
ance of  the  cocoon  stage  for  this  brood.  The  moths  remain  in 
the  cocoon  stage  about  two  weeks.  About  a  week  passes  before 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  39  ] 

the  moths  which  emerge  begin  laying  eggs,  and  from  40  to  60 
days  later  the  worms  which  hatch  from  these  eggs  have  reached 
their  maturity  in  the  apple  as  "side  worms'*  and  come  out  of  the 
fruit  to  transform  into  another  crop  of  moths. 

And  thus  the  cycle  is  repeated  for  the  third  brood,  which  in 
the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  may  be  completed.  But  as  a 
rule,  in  the  larger  portion  of  the  apple  producing  parts  of  the 
country,  the  worms  which  emerge  from  the  second  brood  are 
the  ones  which  pass  through  the  winter  to  restock  the  orchard 
with  wormy  apples  the  following  year.  A  great  many  of  the 
state  experiment  stations  are  now  keeping  careful  watch  of  the 
appearance  of  the  different  broods  of  codling  moths  and  are 
in  position  to  advise  the  fruit  growers  in  their  states  concern- 
ing these  appearances,  in  order  that  the  necessary  spraying  may 
be  done  at  the  most  opportune  time.  It  is  well  worth  the  while 
for  any  apple  grower  to  give  careful  attention  to  these  data 
from  their  state  experiment  stations  and  to  govern  their  spray- 
ing accordingly. 

Promptness  and  thoroughness  are  essential  in  combating 
the  codling  moth,  and  by  having  the  spraying  done  at  exactly 
the  right  time  for  the  worms  is  far  more  profitable  than  to  do 
the  work  when  it  is  most  convenient.  Because  of  the  habit  of 
the  first  brood  of  the  moths  to  enter  at  the  calyx  end  of  the 
apple,  it  is  very  important  that  the  spray  material  be  applied 
thoroughly,  and  that  the  spray  be  broken  up  into  the  finest  pos- 
sible mist  in  order  that  it  may  penetrate  the  minute  cracks 
between  the  stamen  bars  and  lodge  in  the  deepest  recesses  of 
the  calyx  cup.  This  is  where  there  is  a  distinct  advantage  in 
Fruit-Fog,  as  the  finely  atomized  mist  penetrates  more  effect- 
ively than  a  coarse  low  pressure  spray. 

Curculio 

Next  to  the  codling  moth,  the  most  expensive  pest  of 
apple  and  peach  orchards,  is  the  curculio.  The  adult  is 
a  homely  greyish  brown  beetle  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  long,  and  with  a  peculiar  elephant-like  trunk  at  its 
head-end.  It  attacks  the  fruit  of  apples,  peaches,  plums 
and  cherries,  in  the  skin  of  which  it  nibbles  little  cres- 
cent shaped  slits.  In  some  of  these  slits  the  adults  de- 
posit eggs,  and  in  the  case  of  the  plum  and  cherry  these 
eggs  hatch  and  grow  into  grubs  that  cause  the  wormy 
fruit.  The  peach  is  frequently  wormy  from  the  develop- 


[40]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

ment  of  the  curculio  grubs,  but  the  grubs  are  much  less 
liable  to  reach  maturity  in  the  apple. 

However,  there  is  much  deformity  of  the  fruit  when 
punctured  by  curculio,  and  it  is  chiefly  from  this  de- 
formity that  the  greatest  amount  of  damage  comes  in 
the  apple.  But  in  plums,  peaches  and  cherries,  which 
are  subject  to  brown  rot,  the  breaks  in  the  skin  made  by 
the  curculio  admit  the  spores  of  the  brown  rot  fungus, 
with  the  result  that  the  fruit  soon  rots. 

The  curculio  over-winters  in  the  beetle  stage  under 
rubbish  in  the  orchard,  and  the  adults  when  they  come 
out  of  winter  quarters  feed  on  the  young  leaves  and 
later  on  the  fruit. 

CONTROL:  Because  of  its  habit  of  eating  the  foliage  and 
skin,  even  though  the  feeding  area  in  any  given  position  is  very 
small,  the  curculio  can  be  controlled  by  applications  of  arsenate 
of  lead.  When  the  spraying  is  done,  as  for  the  codling  moth, 
it  answers  for  the  curculio  so  that  special  applications  for  this 
particular  insect  are  not  necessary,  although  the  curculio  is  less 
easily  disposed  of  than  the  codling  moth.  Because  of  the 
quantity  of  surface  this  insect  eats  is  very  small,  it  is  highly 
important  that  the  maximum  distribution  of  spray  be  obtained. 
A  pressure  of  300  pounds  is  absolutely  necessary  for  this,  since 
it  produces  the  most  finely  atomized  mist,  which  covers  without 
drenching  and  dripping  off  the  leaf.  Hayes  Fruit-Fog  sprayers 
produce  an  ideal  mist,  and  one  that  gives  maximum  efficiency 
in  the  control  of  the  curculio. 

Cankerworms 

The  cankerworm  feeds  upon  the  foliage  of  a  number 
of  different  trees,  but  appear  to  be  especially  fond  of 
apple  and  elm  leaves,  usually  defoliating  the  trees  that 
are  attacked,  unless  poisoned.  The  worms  are  of  the 
"measuring  worm"  type.  The  eggs  are  deposited  in 
very  early  spring  by  wingless  female  moths,  which  climb 
up  the  trunk  of  the  trees  and  deposit  eggs  upon  the 
branches,  after  which  the  female  drops  to  the  ground, 
exhausted  and  dies.  The  adult  male  possesses  wings 
and  flies  about  in  seeking  its  mate. 


APPLE 
SCAB 


APPLE  BLOTCH 


BITTER  ROT  APPLE  CRACKED  BY  SCAB 

[  Page  41  ] 


fSCAB 
ON  APPLE 
LEAF 


DA  MAGE  TO 
PEAR  LEAF  BY  SLUG       J 


[  Page  42  ] 


BLIGHT  ON 
APPLE  TWIG 


PEACH  BROWN 
ROT  MUMMIES 


CURRANT  WORMS 


[  Page  43  ] 


SOOTY  BLOTCH  AND  FLY  SPECK  FUNGI 


GURCULIO    PUNCTURES 


[  Page  44  ] 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  45  ] 

CONTROL:  Because  of  the  habit  of  the  female  in  crawl- 
ing up  the  trunks  of  trees,  if  the  trunks  are  surrounded  with  a 
band  of  some  sticky  substance  over  which  the  moths  cannot 
crawl,  the  tree  is  protected.  While  this  answers  quite  well 
under  some  conditions,  in  the  orchard  it  is  less  necessary  to 
band  the  trees,  since  the  application  of  arsenate  of  lead  applied 
in  the  cluster-bud  spray  will  prove  entirely  effective  in  con- 
trolling canker  worms. 

Leaf-Roller 

In  several  localities  the  leaf-roller  causes  a  great  deal 
of  damage  of  fruit  trees  through  defoliation.  The  worms 
will  appear  rather  early  in  the  spring,  feed  on  the  foliage 
for  a  while  and  then  disappear,  only  to  come  again  the 
next  year.  This  worm  is  easily  identified,  because  of  its 
habit  of  drawing  the  unfolding  leaves  together  and  tying 
them  with  silk.  Within  the  nest  thus  formed  the  worms 
live  and  feed  upon  the  leaves.  Frequently  entire  orchards 
are  defoliated  by  this  worm,  but  as  its  feeding  is  not 
confined  strictly  to  the  leaves,  it  eats  the  blossom  stems 
and  even  the  young  fruit,  webbing  them  together  with 
the  leaves  and  gnawing  cavities  into  the  young  fruit. 

The  eggs  of  the  leaf-roller  are  deposited  in  early 
spring  in  small  oval,  convex  patches  on  the  bark  and 
smaller  twigs.  These  patches  are  so  nearly  the  color 
of  the  bark  that  they  are  not  easily  observed  until  after 
they  have  hatched,  when  the  egg  patches  become  a  light 
grey  color.  These  egg  patches  Vary  in  size  from  the 
head  of  a  lead  pencil  to  twice  that  size.  Hatching  con- 
tinues over  a  period  of  several  days.  Each  egg  mass, 
at  the  time  it  is  deposited,  is  covered  by  a  heavy  coat 
of  a  varnish-like  substance,  which  renders  it  impervious 
to  rain  and  to  the  great  majority  of  spray  liquids.  The 
caterpillars  that  hatch  from  these  eggs  are  of  a  greenish 
color,  and  when  mature  may  be  about  an  inch  in  length. 
When  they  have  reached  their  maturity  these  cater- 
pillars pupate,  that  is,  they  form  a  crysalis  within  the 
nest  of  folded  leaves  in  which  they  have  lived,  and  in  a 
short  time  emerge  again  as  moths. 


[  46  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

The  moths  are  rusty  red  in  color,  with  two  bright 
spots  on  the  front  edge  of  each  wing,  and  vary  from 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  expanse  across 
the  wings.  There  is  but  one  brood  a  season,  and  the 
eggs  that  are  deposited  in  mid-summer  will  not  hatch 
until  the  following  spring,  often  a  period  of  ten  months. 

CONTROL:  Because  of  the  habit  of  the  caterpillars  of 
tying  the  leaves  together  in  earliest  spring  and  feeding  upon 
the  new  leaves  as  they  unfold,  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  put 
poison  on  the  foliage  in  such  a  way  that  it  is  entirely  effective 
in  controlling  this  insect.  But  it  has  been  found  that  the 
soluble  oil  sprays  applied  during  the  dormant  period  will 
penetrate  the  egg  masses  and  destroy  the  eggs.  The  utmost 
care  must  be  exercised  in  applying  the  soluble  oil,  in  order 
to  cover  the  tree  thoroughly,  and  to  wet  every  egg  mass. 
Fruit-Fog  is  especially  serviceable  here,  because  its  highly 
atomized  condition  permits  it  to  spread  and  cover  larger  areas 
than  sprays  produced  by  lower  pressures. 

Apple  Maggot 

The  flesh  of  summer  and  early  fall  varieties  of  fruit 
is  frequently  found  to  contain  small  brownish  winding 
burrows  that  are  made  by  the  grub  of  the  apple  maggot. 

CONTROL:  The  adult  is  a  fly,  which  sucks  material  from 
the  surface  of  the  apple,  and  when  the  tree  is  sprayed  with 
arsenate  of  lead  to  which  cheap  molasses  has  been  added  at  the 
rate  of  1^  gallons  to  each  50  gallons,  the  adults  may  be  pois- 
oned. Only  one  brood  occurs  each  season,  and  as  the  grubs 
of  this  brood  reach  their  maturity,  they  drop  to  the  ground 
where  they  pupate  and  remain  until  the  following  season. 
Orchards  that  are  cultivated  and  thoroughly  sprayed,  as  a  rule, 
are  free  from  this  insect. 

Case  Bearers 

The  cigar  case  bearer  and  the  pistol  case  bearer,  so 
called  because  of  the  shape  of  their  small  silken  cases, 
are  insects  which  may  do  a  considerable  amount  of 
damage  to  the  foliage  of  the  apple,  but  which  may  be 
controlled  by  thorough  spraying.  In  spring  the  worms, 
which  have  over-wintered  in  their  cases  attached  to  the 
twigs,  feed  on  the  opening  buds  and  new  foliage  until 
full  grown,  living  all  the  while  within  their  cases,  which 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  47  ] 

may  be  observed  projecting  from  the  foliage.  Orchards 
that  are  thoroughly  sprayed  as  for  apple  scab  and  cur- 
culio  are  rarely  injured  by  case  bearers.  But  in  young 
orchards,  where  systematic  spraying  has  not  been  be- 
gun, the  case  bearers  may  cause  considerable  damage 
before  the  cause  may  be  suspected.  It  will  pay  to  care- 
fully observe  the  young  orchard  for  the  presence  of  case 
bearers,  and  to  spray  once  or  twice  each  season  with 
arsenate  of  lead.  (See  page  25.) 

Lesser  Apple  Worm 

The  work  of  this  insect  is  in  some  respects  quite 
similar  to  that  of  the  codling  moth,  and  as  the  cater- 
pillars both  have  the  same  general  appearance  and  pink- 
ish color,  the  confusion  is  quite  understandable.  The 
lesser  apple  worm  burrows  beneath  the  skin,  usually 
around  the  calyx  end  of  the  apple,  where  it  may  make 
winding,  irregular  mines.  Where  two  apples  touch  each 
other,  or  where  an  apple  is  partly  covered  by  a  leaf,  the 
lesser  apple  worm  may  find  a  place  to  lodge  and  damage. 
Since  the  worms  do  not  reach  their  maturity  in  the  fall 
as  soon  as  the  codling  moth,  it  is  quite  common  to  find 
apples  that  were  in  perfect  condition  at  the  time  they 
were  barreled  to  have  large  patches  of  the  skin  gnawed 
away  and  the  fruit  thereby  considerably  damaged.  The 
adult  is  a  rusty  red  moth. 

CONTROL:  This  insect  is  controlled  by  the  same  treat- 
ment as  is  given  for  the  codling  moth  and  the  more  thoroughl) 
that  treatment  is  given,  the  more  effective  it  will  be  for  the  con- 
trol of  the  lesser  apple  worm. 

Plant  Lice— Aphis 

The  apple  is  infested  by  three  kinds  of  plant  lice,  two 
of  which  are  green  in  color  and  the  other  is  rosy  or 
brownish.  They  pass  the  winter  on  the  twigs  and 
shiny  black  eggs  which  hatch  very  earlv  in  the  spring, 
just  as  the  buds  are  beginning  to  open.  These  particular 
individuals  are  the  progenitors  of  millions  that  will  fol- 


[48]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

low  later  in  the  season  unless  control  measures  are  taken 
^s  the  first  buds  are  opening. 

CONTROL:  Thorough  spraying  at  this  time  with  nico- 
tine sulphate  at  the  rate  of  $4  gallon  to  100  gallons  of  lime- 
sulphur  or  water,  will  materially  reduce  the  number.  Unless 
these  insects  are  killed  at  this  time,  they  will  multiply  with 
great  rapidity,  cause  the  leaves  of  the  tree  to  curl;  and  when 
they  become  very  numerous  they  will  attack  the  fruit,  causing 
it  to  stop  growing  and  have  a  considerably  deformed  shape. 
Where  the  twigs  of  apple  trees  are  found  in  winter  to  have 
many  small  shiny  black  eggs  deposited  near  the  tip  or  buds, 
every  precaution  should  be  taken  to  spray  thoroughly  and  vig- 
orously with  nicotine  sulphate  just  as  the  buds  are  opening 
the  following  spring.  (See  page  28.) 

Woolly  Aphis 

The  woolly  aphis,  unlike  the  rosy  or  green  aphis,  does 
not  attack  the  leaves  or  fruit  of  apples,  but  it  confines 
its  work  to  the  tender  bark  of  young  shoots,  the  callus 
around  wounds  and  to  the  roots  of  the  trees.  Wherever 
it  feeds,  it  produces  knots  or  galls  that  interfere  more  or 
less  with  the  normal  function  of  the  part.  The  woolly 
aphis  is  particularly  troublesome  to  the  roots  of  nursery 
stock,  and  because  of  its  underground  habits  it  is  difficult 
to  control  in  this  position. 

It  is  characterized  by  its  purplish  color,  with  the  rear 
portion  of  the  insect  heavily  clothed  with  a  white  woolly 
secretion.  It  attacks  many  kinds  of  plants  and  is  found 
on  the  curled  leaves  of  the  elm  in  summer. 

CONTROL:  Those  individuals  found  upon  the  bark  above 
ground  may  be  disposed  of  with  an  application  of  nicotine 
sulphate  or  kerosene  emulsion.  For  the  underground  form,  an 
application  of  tobacco  dust  scattered  on  the  soil  immediately 
above  the  roots  and  covered  with  soil  gives  some  protection. 

San  Jose  Scale 

This  insect,  although  of  minute  size,  is  capable  of 
causing  the  death  of  a  fruit  tree  within  two  or  three 
years,  since  it  multiplies  very  rapidly,  and  a  tree  once 
infested  soon  becomes  literally  encrusted  with  the  scale 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  49  ] 

and  the  life  actually  sucked  out  of  it.  San  Jose  scale 
has  already  caused  the  death  of  thousands  of  valuable 
fruit  trees,  but  as  the  late  J.  H.  Hale  once  remarked,  it 
has  been  a  blessing  in  disguise.  It  has  made  it  necessary 
for  fruit  growers  to  spray  in  order  to  save  even  their 
trees. 

CONTROL:  The  control  of  the  San  Jose  scale  is  quite 
readily  affected  by  making  an  application  of  lime-sulphur  at 
proper  strength  to  the  trees  during  the  dormant  period — that 
is  when  the  leaves  are  off.  Usually  this  is  done  in  late  spring 
just  before  the  buds  open.  Commercial  grades  of  lime-sulphur, 
testing  33  degrees,  is  diluted  with  nine  parts  of  water  and  applied 
in  such  a  way  as  to  thoroughly  wet  all  parts  of  the  tree  from 
the  tips  of  the  uppermost  and  outermost  branches,  down  to  the 
lowest  part  of  the  trunk 

Unless  this  is  done,  the  rapid  multiplication  of  the  scale 
will  enable  it  to  soon  encrust  every  branch  and  twig  of  the 
tree,  and  even  the  fruit  at  harvest  time  will  be  found  to  be 
disfigured  with  the  minute  scales  located  in  the  center  of  bright 
red  spots.  Control  measures  are  less  easily  made  during  the 
summer,  but  as  applications  made  during  the  dormant  period 
are  entirely  effective,  spraying  for  the  San  Jose  scale  at  this 
time  is  considered  most  effective  and  most  economical. 

Oyster-Shell  Scale 

It  is  easy  to  distinguish  the  oyster-shell  scale  from 
the  San  Jose  because  of  its  oyster-shell-like  shape  and 
greater  length,  often  as  much  as  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in 
length.  It  infests  a  great  many  different  kinds  of  trees 
and  shrubs  in  every  state,  but  is  much  less  destructive 
than  the  San  Jose  scale. 

CONTROL:  Applications  of  lime-sulphur  made  as  for  the 
San  Jose  scale  will  hold  the  oyster-shell  in  check. 

Scurfy  Scale 

The  scurfy  scale  is  a  native  insect  found  upon  apples, 
peaches,  plums,  raspberries,  roses  and  many  other  kinds 
of  shrubs  and  trees.  It  is  easily  identified  because  of  the 
whitish  scale  about  the  size  of  a  pinhead,  found  on  the 
smooth  bark  of  the  infested  plant.  Although  one  of  the 


[  50  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

commonest  of  the  scale  insects,  it  occasions  but  little 
damage  except  in  isolated  instances.  However,  the  pres- 
ence of  the  scurfy  scale  on  trees  or  bushes  should  serve 
as  a  warning  to  the  grower,  since  it  may  reduce  the 
vitality  of  the  tree  to  such  an  extent  that  it  falls  victim 
to  other  pests  which  are  less  readily  controlled. 

CONTROL:  The  scurfy  scale  is  controlled  by  applications 
of  lime-sulphur  made  during  the  dormant  period.  In  orchards 
that  are  systematically  sprayed,  as  for  the  San  Jose  scale  the 
scurfy  scale  is  unknown. 

Tent  Caterpillar 

In  early  spring  there  sometimes  are  found  webs  of 
the  tent  caterpillar  enclosing  the  smaller  forks  of  some 
of  the  twigs,  within  which  are  black  caterpillars  feeding 
on  the  tender  young  leaves.  Unless  the  foliage  has  been 
poisoned,  or  these  tents  cut  out  and  burned,  a  consider- 
able portion  of  the  foliage  of  the  branch  may  be  con- 
sumed by  the  hungry  caterpillars.  In  five  or  six  weeks 
the  caterpillars  become  full  grown,  after  which  they  leave 
the  web  and  seek  shelter  under  rubbish  at  the  base  of  the 
tree,  or  in  other  places  where  they  transform  to  stout 
bodied,  reddish  brown  moths.  These  deposit  eggs  in  a 
knot-like  band  around  the  twig  and  cover  them  with  a 
frothy  varnish  which  gives  a  smooth,  glistening  surface 
to  the  whole  mass.  These  eggs  do  not  hatch  until  the 
following  spring. 

CONTROL:  Since  this  is  a  foliage  eating  insect  an  appli- 
cation of  arsenate  of  lead  before  the  appearance  of  the  worms, 
or  at  about  that  time,  will  prove  effective.  Because  of  the 
prominence  of  the  egg  masses,  when  pruning,  these  egg  masses 
should  be  cut  off  and  kept  in  some  convenient  place  in  the 
orchard  until  hatching  time  in  the  spring.  This  will  permit 
the  emergence  of  many  minute  parasitic  flies  which  have  been 
feeding  on  the  eggs,  and  which  take  a  very  prominent  part  in 
keeping  this  pest  under  control. 

Fall  Web-Worm 

This  insect  is  easily  confused  with  the  tent  caterpillar, 
but  differs  in  that  it  appears  in  mid  or  late  summer,  and 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  51  ] 

is  a  whitish  caterpillar,  heavily  clothed  with  long  white 
hairs.  It  spins  a  web  securely  enclosing  the  leaves  upon 
which  it  feeds.  When  the  caterpillars  have  reached  ma- 
turity, they  leave  the  web  and  in  some  secluded  place 
spin  a  flimsy  cocoon  of  silk  within  which  they  transform 
to  pupae  and  later  emerge  as  pure  white  moths.  The 
eggs  are  deposited  on  the  leaves  in  pale  yellowish  green 
patches  of  400  to  500. 

CONTROL:  The  fall  web  worm  is  a  common  pest  in  all 
orchards  that  are  not  sprayed,  and  upon  many  different  kinds 
of  forest  and  shade  trees.  But  it  may  be  controlled  by  an 
application  of  arsenate  of  lead  as  soon  as  the  first  webs  are 
observed.  In  orchards  that  are  thoroughly  and  regularly 
sprayed  there  is  little  or  no  trouble  from  the  fall  web  worm. 

Apple  Red  Bags 

These  are  small  bright  red  bugs  which  puncture  the 
fruit  of  young  apples  and  cause  them  to  drop  early  or  to 
be  knotty  and  deformed  in  shape  at  harvest. 

CONTROL:  It  may  be  controlled  by  adding  nicotine  sul- 
phate to  the  lime-sulphur-arsenate  of  lead  spray  that  is  applied 
when  the  apple  blossom  buds  are  showing  pink,  and  again 
when  making  the  calyx  application. 

Insects  Affecting  the  Pear 

The  pear  is  attacked  by  a  great  majority  of  the  insects 
that  attack  the  apple,  and  the  control  measures  for  the 
one  are  also  applicable  to  the  other.  But  the  pear  is  also 
subject  to  the  attack  of  certain  other  insects  which  cause 
more  or  less  serious  damage,  of  which  the  following  are 
some  of  the  most  important : 

Thrips 

This  is  a  minute  insect,  so  small  that  it  is  barely  visi- 
ble to  the  naked  eye,  but  when  present  in  sufficient  num- 
bers it  may  puncture  the  tender  opening  buds  of  the  pear 
to  such  an  extent  that  the  sap  will  wet  the  fruit  spur  and 
cause  a  discoloration  of  the  bud.  When  the  trees  are  in 
full  bloom,  the  attacked  parts  may  have  some  such  ap- 
pearance as  though  attacked  by  blight.  . 

LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS 


[  52  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

CONTROL:  The  most  efficient  spray  mixture  is  nicotine 
sulphate,  40  per  cent  strength,  diluted  at  the  rate  of  three- 
quarter  pint  in  100  gallons  of  water,  to  which  from  three  to  five 
pounds  of  soap  have  been  added.  This  should  be  applied  under 
high  pressure,  holding  the  nozzle  close  to  the  buds  when  the 
buds  are  beginning  to  open,  and  applied  again  as  the  petals 
are  falling. 

Psylla 

This  pesky  little  insect  sucks  the  sap  of  the  pear  and 
is  found  mostly  on  the  under  sides  of  the  young  leaves 
or  in  the  blossom  clusters.  They  may  occur  in  such 
large  numbers  as  to  suck  out  so  much  sap  as  to  seriously 
check  the  development  of  the  part  that  it  attacked  eventu- 
ally causing  it  to  drop.  In  long  continued  attacks  the 
tree  may  become  almost  entirely  defoliated.  Several 
broods  occur  each  season,  and  the  last  brood  goes  through 
the  winter  as  adult  "flies."  These  cluster  on  the  twigs 
in  winter,  and  in  cool  weather  are  much  more  sluggish 
than  in  warm. 

CONTROL:  Because  of  this  habit,  an  application  of  sol- 
uble oil,  or  nicotine  sulphate,  applied  thoroughly  so  as  to  wet 
the  insects,  and  done  on  days  when  the  temperature  is  above 
freezing  in  late  November  or  December,  will  kill  the  great 
majority  of  these  adults.  An  application  of  nicotine  sulphate 
made  as  the  cluster  buds  have  opened,  but  as  late  as  possible 
before  the  blossoms  have  actually  opened,  will  dispose  of  most 
of  the  spring  brood  that  developed  from  the  few  individuals 
that  escaped  the  later  winter  spraying. 

Plum  and  Pear  Slag 

You  have  seen  the  leaves  on  pears  and  plums  turn 
brown  in  summer,  and  when  you  examine  them,  nothing 
remains  of  the  leaf  but  the  bare  skeleton,  and  perhaps  a 
thin  film  of  skin  on  the  under  side.  This  is  the  work  of 
the  slug,  a  slimy,  black  creature  that  feeds  upon  the  pulp 
of  the  leaf,  usually  feeding  from  the  upper  surface. 

CONTROL:  Because  of  the  slimy,  sticky  nature  of  the 
slug,  any  irritating  substance  thrown  upon  it  will  cling  and 
cause  the  insect  to  drop  to  the  ground  and  die.  Air  slacked 
lime,  ashes,  dry  soil,  tobacco  dust  or  anything  of  that  sort  is 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  53  ] 

effective.  But  because  the  insect  chews  the  tissue  of  the  leaf, 
it  is  most  effectively  disposed  of  by  spraying  the  tissue  upon 
which  the  insect  may  be  feeding  with  arsenate  of  lead.  It 
attacks  both  plum  and  pear,  but  causes  little  or  no  damage  in 
orchards  that  are  regularly  sprayed. 


Insects  of  the  Peach 


Curculio 

Peaches  and  plums  suffer  even  more  severely  from 
the  depredations  of  the  plum  curculio  than  do  apples. 
This  is  for  the  reason  that  the  curculio  is  chiefly  responsi- 
ble for  the  worms  in  plums  and  peaches,  and  also  for  the 
reason  that  the  feeding  punctures  made  by  the  curculio 
provide  means  of  entrance  of  the  brown  rot  fungus.  This 
fungus  causes  the  fruit  to  rot  very  quickly  and  not  in- 
frequently unsprayed  or  improperly  sprayed  peach  and 
plum  crops  rot  upon  the  trees  or  in  transit  to  market  as 
a  result  of  this  fungus.  On  that  account  special  atten- 
tion should  be  directed  to  the  control  of  the  curculio  on 
peaches  and  plums. 

CONTROL:  This  is  more  easily  done  in  the  case  of  these 
fruits  than  on  the  apple.  An  application  of  self-boiled  lime- 
sulphur  and  arsenate  of  lead  made  immediately  after  the  shucks 
drop  from  the  little  fruits  and  again  about  two  or  three 
weeks  later  with  a  third  application  about  a  month  before  the 
fruit  ripens.  Sometimes  in  this  last  application,  it  is  desirable 
to  omit  the  arsenate  of  lead.  There  is  less  danger  from  the 
curculio  at  that  time. 

Peach  Tree  Borers 

In  many  parts  of  the  country  the  worst  insect  of  the 
peach  is  the  borer,  which  attacks  the  tree  at  or  near  the 
surface  of  the  soil  and  gnaws  away  the  tender  inner  por- 
tion of  the  bark.  Its  presence  is  indicated  by  a  consider- 
able flow  of  wax.  The  most  effective  means  of  control 
is  to  dig  out  the  borers  in  early  summer  and  late  fall, 
keeping  a  mound  of  earth  pulled  up  around  the  trunk. 
This  will  make  it  necessary  for  the  little  borers  to  enter 


[  54  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

the  tree  higher  up  on  the  trunk  where  it  is  easier  to  get 
at  them.  The  adult  of  the  peach  tree  borer  is  a  clear 
winged  moth. 

CONTROL:  Eggs  are  deposited  on  the  trunk  of  the  tree, 
and  because  of  this,  and  the  fact  that  the  little  grubs  work 
their  way  into  the  bark,  a  coating  of  asphaltum  or  gas  tar 
applied  to  the  trunk  of  the  tree  will  afford  some  protection. 
However,  since  any  protective  material  applied  to  the  trunk 
of  a  growing  tree  will  crack  more  or  less,  the  smallest  crack 
will  afford  a  means  of  entrance  through  the  protective  cover- 
ing, and  a  tree  may  become  infested  in  spite  of  the  protection. 
Some  additional  relief  from  borer  damage  can  be  obtained  by 
making  applications  of  rather  strong  lime-sulphur  solution, 
whitewash  or  nicotine  sulphate  to  the  trunk  at  about  the  period 
the  adult  bearers  are  depositing  their  eggs.  There  is  no  sure 
and  certain  relief  from  borers,  although  numberless  so-called 
"remedies,"  "cures"  and  "protectors"  are  on  the  market.  Trees 
that  are  infested  with  borers  soon  become  weakened,  their 
growth  is  reduced,  and  the  tree  dies  in  a  year  or  two. 

Black  Peach-aphis 

This  insect  attacks  both  roots  and  tops  of  the  peach 
trees  and  not  infrequently  is  present  on  the  roots  to  such 
an  extent  that  much  damage  is  done  before  their  presence 
is  suspected.  Whenever  the  black  aphis  is  observed 
clustered  on  the  tender  growing  shoots,  their  presence 
on  the  roots  is  almost  certain.  The  chief  damage  is  to 
nursery  stock,  and  the  best  means  of  control  is  to  dis- 
tribute tobacco  dust  or  stems  thickly  along  the  rows  just 
above  the  roots,  and  to  cut  off  and  destroy  the  twigs  that 
are  infested,  or  spray  with  nicotine  sulphate. 

Shot-Hole  Borer 

Peach  and  plum  trees  sometimes  display  minute  bits 
of  gum  on  the  bark  in  many  places  over  the  trunk  and 
main  branches.  Usually  this  gumming  is  due  to  the  pres- 
ence of  the  shot-hole  borer.  This  is  a  minute  black  beetle, 
scarcely  as  large  as  a  grain  of  wheat.  The  adult  beetle 
gains  entrance  to  the  bark  by  nibbling  through  the  corky 
outer  portion,  and  feeds  upon  the  soft  inner  bark.  Here 
it  makes  a  little  channel  through  the  soft  portion  of  the 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  55  ] 

bark,  in  each  side  of  which  she  deposits  her  eggs.  When 
these  eggs  hatch,  the  little  grubs  burrow  through  the 
soft  portion  of  the  bark,  at  right  angles  to  the  channel 
made  by  the  parent.  When  they  reach  maturity,  they 
gnaw  their  way  through  the  corky  outer  bark,  making  a 
hole  that  resembles  a  shot-hole,  hence  the  name  "shot- 
hole  borer." 

CONTROL:  This  insect  is  most  destructive  to  trees  that 
have  been  weakened  by  the  peach  tree  borer,  but  seldom  attacks 
or  does  much  damage  to  trees  that  are  growing  thriftily.  It  is 
obvious  therefore  that  precautions  be  taken  to  keep  the  peach 
trees  growing  thriftily.  Trees  that  are  well  sprayed  each  year, 
pruned,  fertilized  and  cultivated,  are  less  liable  to  attacks  from 
this  little  pest  than  when  the  trees  are  neglected.  Applications 
of  whitewash  to  the  trunks  of  the  trees  from  the  soil  well  up 
into  the  branches  afford  some  protection,  and  still  further  pro- 
tection can  be  obtained  from  the  destruction  of  all  prunings 
from  the  peach  orchard  immediately  after  the  pruning  is  done. 
This  beetle  will  breed  in  prunings  as  much  as  a  year  old,  and 
on  that  account  these  prunings  should  be  burned  before  the 
arrival  of  warm  weather. 

Cherry  Insects 

The  chief  insect  enemies  of  the  cherry  are  the  same 
as  those  for  the  peach  and  plum,  and  means  of  control 
are  the  same. 

Grape  Insects 


Grape  Berry  Moth 

This  insect  is  the  most  common  cause  of  wormy 
grapes.  The  adult  is  a  moth  purplish  brown  in  color  and 
with  a  wing  expanse  of  about  half  an  inch.  They  appear 
in  spring  about  as  the  grapes  are  beginning  growth  and 
deposit  their  eggs  on  the  blossom  clusters.  The  worms 
that  hatch  from  these  eggs  feed  on  the  blossoms  and 
small  berries,  webbing  the  cluster  together.  A  second 
generation  appears  in  mid-summer  and  feeds  upon  the 
pulp  of  the  grapes,  which  soon  rots  from  fungous  attacks 
that  gain  entrance  through  the  opening  made  by  the 


[  56  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

worm.  When  the  worms  reach  maturity  they  cut  out  a 
little  patch  of  the  grape  leaf,  fold  it  over  and  tie  it  to- 
gether with  silk,  within  which  they  pupate.  There  may 
be  as  many  as  three  or  four  broods  in  a  season. 

Control  is  affected  by  making  an  application  of  arsenate 
of  lead  and  bordeaux  mixture  when  the  blossom  clusters  are 
unfolding,  another  application  immediately  after  blooming  and 
a  third  in  mid-summer.  In  a  small  vineyard  or  on  a  grape 
arbor,  the  grapes  can  be  pretty  well  protected  by  bagging 
them  as  soon  as  the  little  grapes  are  well  formed. 

Grape  Curculio 

This  is  a  pestiferous  little  beetle,  near  kin  to  the  cur- 
culio  that  damages  the  plum,  peach  and  apple.  It  causes 
wormy  grapes,  but  the  worms  can  be  distinguished  from 
the  grape  berry  moth  in  that  they  are  white,  footless 
grubs,  while  those  of  the  berry  moth  are  greenish,  with 
well  developed  legs  and  wiggling  away  when  disturbed. 
The  adults  emerge  from  winter  quarters  early  in  the 
spring  and  feed  upon  the  foliage  for  three  or  four  weeks 
before  depositing  their  eggs  in  the  berries.  Infested 
berries  usually  show  a  purplish  spot  around  the  egg 
puncture.  When  the  grub  hatches  it  bores  into  the  fruit 
and  in  three  or  four  days  reaches  the  seeds,  which  it 
then  devours.  Usually  there  is  but  one  generation,  al- 
though in  some  localities  there  are  two. 

Control  is  alfected  by  spraying  with  arsenicals  as  in  the 
case  of  the  grape  berry  moth,  or  the  root  worm. 

Grape  Root  Worm  (Fidia) 

This  insect  riddles  the  leaves  of  grapes,  eats  chunks 
out  of  the  green  berries  and  eats  off  the  smaller  roots  of 
the  vine.  On  that  account  it  can  well  be  considered  as 
the  master  destroyer  of  the  vineyard.  The  adult  is  a 
brownish  beetle  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  long,  and  so 
heavily  covered  with  minute  grey  hairs  that  it  appears 
to  be  grey  in  color.  The  adult  feeds  upon  the  foliage  of 
the  grape,  nibbling  off  the  surface  in  more  or  less  chain- 
like  areas.  They  deposit  their  eggs  beneath  the  loose 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  57  ] 

bark  on  the  older  canes,  and  the  young  which  hatch  from 
these  eggs  drop  to  the  ground  where  they  burrow  down 
and  feed  upon  the  tender  rootlets.  So  extensive  may 
be  their  damage  here  that  a  very  large  proportion  of  the 
root  surface  is  destroyed,  with  serious  results  to  the  vine. 

Control  is  affected  by  spraying  the  vines  with  bordeaux 
mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead  as  soon  as  the  leaves  become 
fully  expanded.  This  will  make  the  foliage  distasteful  to  the 
adult  insects  and  drive  them  away.  The  vines  must  be  sprayed 
with  extreme  thoroughness,  as  the  beetles  will  seek  those  por- 
tions which  have  escaped  the  spray. 

Rose  Chafers 

This  long-legged,  ungainly  beetle  often  swarms  into 
vineyards  in  sandy  regions  and  does  much  damage  by 
feeding  upon  the  blossoms  and  foliage.  It  is  readily 
recognized  because  of  its  light  brownish  color  and  its 
long,  spiny  awkward  looking  legs. 

It  may  be  controlled  by  spraying  the  vines  thoroughly  with 
bordeaux  mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead  or  with  arsenate  of  lead 
to  which  a  gallon  of  molasses  is  added  to  each  50  gallons  of 
spray.  This  sweetened  spray  is  more  readily  eaten  by  the 
beetle  than  is  the  unsweetened. 

L  eaf- Hoppers 

This  is  a  small  yellowish,  reddish  or  greenish  insect 
which  sucks  the  sap  from  the  leaves  of  grape,  apple  and 
many  other  kinds  of  plants,  and  causes  more  serious 
damage  than  is  ordinarily  suspected.  This  is  chiefly  for 
the  reason  that  the  insect  is  most  active  rather  late  in 
the  summer  and  the  results  of  its  activities  occur  only  a 
short  time  before  the  normal  period  for  leaf  fall,  with 
the  result  that  the  leaves  that  are  sucked  dry  by  it,  drop 
from  the  vines  a  little  prematurely,  but  sufficiently  early 
to  seriously  interfere  with  the  proper  function  of  the 
leaves.  And,  since  the  insect  feeds  from  the  lower  side 
of  the  leaves,  immense  numbers  of  them  may  be  present 
without  being  observed,  until  they  reach  maturity,  when 


[  58  ]  .Insects  and  Their  Control 

the  little  adults  fairly  swarm  through  the  air  as  the  vines 
are  disturbed. 

CONTROL:  The  insect  may  be  controlled  by  making 
thorough  applications  of  Black  Leaf  40  to  the  under  sides  of 
the  leaves  when  many  of  the  young  hoppers  may  be  seen.  This 
will  be  about  the  first  of  July.  Make  a  second  application  in 
10  days. 

Insects  of  the  Currant  and  Gooseberry 

Several  different  kinds  of  worms  feed  on  the  foliage 
of  both  currants  and  gooseberries,  and  when  they  are 
found,  or  whenever  it  is  known  that  damage  will  result 
from  these  foliage  eating  worms,  it  is  advisable  to  make 
an  application  of  arsenate  of  lead,  a  teaspoonful  to  a 
gallon  of  water,  or  two  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water, 
upon  the  first  appearance  of  the  worms,  or  when  the 
foliage  has  begun  to  unfold.  Later  applications,  par- 
ticularly, after  the  fruit  has  formed,  should  be  of  helle- 
bore or  pyrethrum,  2  ounces  to  1  gallon,  in  order  to  avoid 
making  the  fruit  poisonous  to  eat. 

Where  plant  lice  appear,  it  is  important  to  make  an 
application  of  nicotine  sulphate,  putting  it  on  at  the  first 
appearance  of  the  aphis,  and  before  the  leaves  have  begun 
to  curl.  After  the  leaves  have  become  curled  it  is  very 
difficult  to  wet  the  lice  sufficiently  as  many  of  them  will 
be  within  the  curls  of  the  leaves  where  it  is  hard  to  wet 
them  with  the  spray. 

Insects  of  Strawberry 


Leaf  Roller 

One  of  the  most  expensive  pests  of  strawberry  beds 
is  the  leaf  roller  which  appears  in  early  spring  and  webs 
the  leaves  together.  An  application  of  arsenate  of  lead, 
two  pounds  to  50  gallons  of  water,  made  early  in  the 
spring  before  the  insect  begins  work,  will  hold  it  in 
check.  Should  the  application  be  delayed  until  after  the 
fruit  has  formed,  use  pyrethrum  or  hellebore  instead  of 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  59  ] 

the  arsenate,  making  it  up  at  the  rate  of  four  ounces  to 
two  gallons  of  water. 

The  strawberry  slug  may  be  controlled  by  similar 
applications.  While  there  are  a  number  of  other  insects 
which  attack  the  strawberry,  their  control  is  obtained 
more  effectually  by  practicing  good  cultural  methods 
than  by  any  particular  form  of  spraying.  The  better 
the  care  that  is  given  to  the  strawberry  plantation,  the 
better  the  fruit  will  be,  as  regards  insect  troubles.  Except 
in  the  case  of  certain  fungous  diseases  of  the  strawberry, 
it  is  seldom  necessary  to  regard  spraying  as  anything 
more  than  an  emergency  measure.  But  as  is  mentioned 
on  page  80  the  spraying  for  rust  is  necessary  in  many 
parts  of  the  country,  and  arsenate  of  lead  can  be  included 
in  that  application  to  advantage. 


Insects  of  Vegetable  Crops 

Colorado  Potato  Beetle 

This  is  the  large,  striped  beetle  that  is  found  through 
practically  all  of  the  territory  in  which  the  white  potato 
is  grown.  The  adults  hibernate  during  the  winter  and 
appear  at  about  the  time  the  first  green  leaves  of  pota- 
toes get  above  the  soil.  Upon  these  the  adult  beetles 
will  feed  and  usually  by  the  time  the  potato  tops  are 
six  inches  high,  small  patches  of  the  yellow  eggs  of  the 
potato  beetles  will  be  found  on  the  under  sides  of  the 
leaves.  These  hatch  into  reddish  black  slugs,  which  are 
ravenous  feeders,  and  consume  a  great  amount  of  foliage 
in  a  short  time. 

CONTROL:  Its  foliage  eating  habit  renders  the  Colo- 
rado potato  beetle  subject  to  control  with  any  poison  that  may 
be  applied  to  the  leaves.  Either  arsenate  of  lead  and  Paris 
green  may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  and  may  be  applied  alone 
or  with  bordeaux  mixture.  As  is  d'scussed  elsewhere  in  this 
book  (page  85),  it  is  much  better  to  apply  a  combined  insecticide 
and  fungicide  to  the  potato,  as  the  injury  occasioned  by  the 
beetle  is  only  one  of  many  injuries  to  which  the  potato  is 
subject.  Lime-sulphur  should  not  be  used  on  potatoes. 


[  60  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

Striped  Cucumber  Beetle 

When  cucumbers,  squash  and  melons  are  just  start- 
ing into  growth,  their  leaves  often  are  greatly  damaged 
by  the  yellow  and  black  striped  cucumber  beetle.  These 
eat  the  pulpy  surface  from  the  leaves,  leaving  more  or 
less  of  the  thin  skin  of  one  side. 

CONTROL:  The  plants  may  be  protected  while  very 
young,  with  a  cover  of  wire  screen;  or  they  may  be  sprayed 
with  arsenate  of  lead  and  bordeaux  mixture.  This  serves  both 
as  a  repellant  to  drive  the  insects  away,  and  as  a  poison  for 
the  few  that  may  venture  to  take  a  bite. 

Cabbage  Worms 

Cabbage,  cauliflower  and  related  plants  suffer  much 
damage  from  the  green  caterpillars  of  the  cabbage  worm 
which  eats  holes  in  the  leaves. 

CONTROL:  The  plants  may  be  protected  by  spraying 
with  any  of  the  arsenical  poisons  to  which  resin  sticker  has 
been  added.  Where  the  plants  of  cabbage  or  cauliflower  are 
just  heading,  it  is  better  to  dust  the  plant  with  hellebore  or 
pyrethrum.  Several  applications  of  poison  may  be  necessary 
during  a  season,  as  there  are  several  over-lapping  broods  of 
the  worms  each  year. 

Aphis  or  Plant  Lice 

In  some  seasons  plant  lice  are  very  destructive  to 
many  kinds  of  vegetables,  especially  turnips,  cabbage, 
cucumbers,  melons  and  potatoes.  These  insects  may  be 
controlled  quite  effectively  by  spraying  with  nicotine 
sulphate,  making  the  applications  in  such  a  way  as  to 
wet  all  of  the  insects.  Usually  they  will  be  found  more 
numerous  on  the  under  surfaces  of  the  leaves  than  else- 
where. 

Onion  Thrips 

The  onion  thrips  are  minute  sucking  insects  which 
puncture  the  leaves  and  suck  the  sap.  Enormous  num- 
bers of  them  may  be  present  in  a  field  and  their  presence 
is  readily  detected  through  the  bleaching  of  the  leaves. 


SLUG  OF  POTATO   BEETLE 


PUNCTURES 
BY  POTATO 
FLEE  BE 


POTATO  BEETLE      '(Enlarged) 


[  Page  61  ] 


DAMAGE  BY  ELM  LEAF  BEETLE 


SPINY    ELM    CATERPILLAR 


MAPLE    COTTONY  SCALE 


t  Page  62  ] 


DEFOLIATED  BY  BAG  WORMS 


TUSSOCK  MOTH  CATERPILLAR 


[  Page  63  ] 


*.  '^**'~  .**£, 


STRIPED  CUCUMBER   BEETLE 


BLACK  ROT 
OF  GRAPE 


[  Page  64 ] 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [65] 

Control  is  effected  by  spraying  with  whale  oil  soap,  one 
pound  to  four  gallons  of  water;  or  with  nicotine  sulphate,  one 
part  to  800  parts  of  water. 

Squash  Stink  Bags 

This  bug  hibernates  during  the  winter  and  emerges 
in  spring  when  squash,  cucumbers,  pumpkin  and  melon 
vines  are  getting  a  nice  start.  The  shining,  brownish 
eggs  are  laid  in  clusters  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves 
and  the  young  bugs  suck  the  sap  from  the  leaves  and 
vines. 

CONTROL:  These  may  be  destroyed  with  an  application 
of  nicotine  sulphate;  or  the  adults  may  be  trapped  under  bits 
of  board  laid  about  the  plants.  These  should  be  turned  over 
daily  in  early  spring  and  the  bugs  crushed. 

Cat  Worms 

Garden  vegetables  suffer  considerable  damage  from 
cut  worms,  which  usually  appear  during  the  night  and 
cut  off  at  the  surface  of  the  ground  newly  set  cabbages, 
tomatoes  and  other  vegetables.  This  kind  of  damage 
can  be  prevented  by  wrapping  the  stems  of  the  plants 
when  transplanting  with  a  little  collar  of  paper.  A  better 
method  is  to  poison  the  worms  with  poisoned  bran  mash. 
(See  page  29.) 

Corn  Ear  Worm 

This  troublesome  and  disgusting  insect  can  be  more 
readily  controlled,  at  least  in  the  sweet  corn  patch,  than 
is  commonly  believed.  By  dusting  or  spraying  the  ears 
with  arsenate  of  lead  when  the  silks  are  just  starting, 
and  repeating  in  four  or  five  days,  with  a  third  applica- 
tion four  or  five  days  later.  The  adult  lays  her  eggs  on 
the  silks,  on  which  the  young  worms  feed  as  they  work 
their  way  down  to  the  kernels  of  corn. 

Flea  Beetle 

Flea  beetles  are  particularly  troublesome  on  egg 
plants,  potatoes  and  other  kinds  of  vegetables,  where 
they  eat  small  holes  in  the  leaves.  Bordeaux  mixture 


[  66  ]  Insects  and  Their  Control 

with  arsenate  of  lead  will  keep  the  plants  free  from  the 
pest  and  should  be  applied  whenever  the  beetles  appear 
in  sufficient  numbers  to  warrant  it. 

Maggots  in  Cabbage  and  Radish  Roots 

Cabbage  roots  and  radishes  suffer  from  injury  by 
maggots  which  eat  into  the  roots,  causing  most  damage 
when  the  plants  are  small.  In  the  case  of  cabbage,  pro- 
tection can  be  had  by  the  use  of  tightly  fitting  cards  cut 
from  tarred  paper.  When  placed  about  the  stems  of 
newly  set  cabbage  they  prevent  the  newly  hatched  mag- 
gots from  reaching  the  roots.  Radishes  can  be  pro- 
tected by  sprinkling  tobacco  dust  along  the  rows  in  which 
the  seed  is  placed. 

Insects  on  Flowering  Shrabs 

There  are  many  kinds  of  leaf  eating  insects  which 
attack  the  foliage  of  ornamental  shrubs,  but  as  in  the 
case  of  all  leaf  eating  insects,  they  may  be  destroyed  by 
spraying  the  foliage  with  arsenate  of  lead.  Make  the 
application  when  the  first  of  the  insects  are  observed. 
Use  arsenate  of  lead  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  of  powdered 
to  50  gallons  of  water;  or  two  level  teaspoonfuls  to  one 
gallon  of  water. 

Slugs  on  Roses 

The  green  slug  that  appears  on  roses  in  early  spring 
and  causes  the  foliage  to  turn  brown,  may  be  destroyed 
by  making  an  application  of  arsenate  of  lead  in  early 
spring  when  the  first  evidence  of  the  slug  is  observed. 
Apply  the  spray  so  as  to  wet  both  the  upper  and  under 
sides  of  the  leaves. 

Plant  Lice  or  Aphis 

Several  different  kinds  of  plant  lice  are  found  on  orna- 
mental shrubs.  Some  are  green,  some  reddish  and  some 
black.  All  suck  the  sap  from  the  leaves  or  other  tender 
parts  of  the  plant  and  in  some  instances  cause  the  leaves 
to  curl.  To  control,  apply  nicotine  sulphate  in  soapy 
water  as  described  on  page  28. 


Insects  and  Their  Control  [  67  ] 

Red  Spiders 

The  work  of  these  mites  is  frequently  very  severe 
before  they  are  observed,  as  they  usually  are  very  small 
and  usually  work  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves.  The 
infested  leaves  take  on  a  yellowish  appearance  and  soon 
dry  up. 

The  most  effective  control  measure  is  to  spray  the  plants 
with  a  coarse  stream  of  cold  water  under  high  pressure.  In 
severe  cases  an  application  of  kerosene  emulsion  is  a  help. 
Sulphur  dusted  over  the  plants  affected  by  red  spiders  will 
frequently  destroy  the  mites. 


[  68  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

CHAPTER  IV 
Diseases  and  Their  Control 


Those  Affecting  the  Apple 

Apple  Scab 

HIS  disease  generally  is  considered  to  be  the  most 
important  disease  of  the  apple,  since  it  occurs 
throughout  almost  the  entire  apple  growing  ter- 
ritory of  North  America.  Total  loss  of  the  apple  crop 
frequently  is  caused  by  this  disease,  especially  in  seasons 
when  conditions  are  favorable  for  the  disease  at  the  time 
the  apples  are  in  blossom.  In  other  years  it  causes  seri- 
ous losses  in  different  ways,  such  as  reducing  the  set  of 
fruit ;  lessening  the  efficiency  of  the  foliage ;  lowering  the 
quality  and  size  of  the  fruit,  and  diminishing  its  keeping 
quality. 

Scab  attacks  the  leaves,  flowers  and  fruit.  Its  first 
appearance  is  on  the  leaves,  where  it  produces  small  black 
spots,  which  become  a  quarter  of  an  inch  or  more  in 
diameter.  Affected  leaves  will  usually  at  first  curl  to  a 
slight  extent,  particularly  over  the  affected  spots.  On 
the  flowers,  the  scab  fungus  appears  mostly  on  the  stems 
of  the  flowers  or  young  fruits  and  on  the  calyx.  The 
scab  spot  may  girdle  the  stems,  cause  it  to  turn  yellow 
and  drop.  On  the  fruit  the  scab  spots  are  similar  in 
appearance  to  those  on  the  leaves,  and  in  severe  cases 
will  run  together  until  more  or  less  of  the  surface  is  cov- 
ered with  the  black,  webby  fungus.  As  the  fruit  enlarges 
in  size,  the  diseased  surface  will  crack,  the  fruit  become 
more  or  less  lop-sided  and  may  drop  before  reaching 
maturity. 

Aside  from  the  direct  injury  to  the  fruit,  scab  causes 
great  losses  to  apple  growers  through  the  destruction  of 
the  foliage.  Leaves  that  are  suffering  from  scab  drop 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [69] 

early  in  the  season.  Not  infrequently  are  apple  trees 
defoliated  by  scab  before  the  fruit  is  fully  ripe.  This  loss 
of  foliage  lessens  the  vitality  of  the  trees;  it  is  less  able 
to  build  up  fruit  buds  for  the  following  season,  or  make 
strong,  vigorous  twig  growth,  or  to  resist  attacks  of  other 
diseases.  On  this  account,  the  indirect  injury  resulting 
from  scab  may  be  considered  as  being  as  much  or  even 
more  than  the  direct  injury  that  appears  on  the  fruit 
itself. 

CONTROL:  Damage  from  apple  scar  may  be  materially 
reduced  by  spraying  with  any  of  the  standard  fungicides. 
And  since  the  proper  measures  for  controlling  scab  conform 
r/ith  the  proper  times  to  spray  for  codling  moth  control,  the 
same  applications  serve  for  both.  Lime-sulphur  has  come  to 
be  regarded  as  the  best  fungicide  for  scab  control,  since  it  is 
somewhat  less  liable  to  burn  or  russet  the  fruit  than  is  bor- 
deaux mixture,  particularly  during  cool  wet  weather. 

The  first  application  for  scab  control  should  be  made  when 
the  flower  buds  are  showing  pink  and  have  separated  suffi- 
ciently that  the  spray  can  be  driven  among  the  buds.  This  is 
known  as  the  "cluster  bud"  application.  For  this  application 
commercial  lime-sulphur  should  be  diluted  approximately  at 
the  rate  of  one  gallon  to  40  gallons  of  water,  to  which  arsenate 
of  lead  is  added  at  the  rate  of  two  pounds  of  paste  to  50  gal- 
lons of  solution.  Bordeaux  mixture  may  be  used  in  place  of 
lime-sulphur,  but  in  cool  weather  of  spring  may  cause  some 
burning. 

Repeat  this  application  immediately  after  the  petals  fall 
from  the  blossoms.  This  is  known  as  the  "calyx  application," 
and  is  the  most  important  of  the  entire  season  for  codling 
moth  control,  and  of  almost  equal  importance  in  scab  control. 
A  third  application  should  be  made  about  ten  days  or  two 
weeks  later,  although  in  years  when  scab  is  not  severe,  this 
application  may  be  deferred  until  the  second  brood  of  codling 
moth  worms  may  be  expected. 

Apple  Blotch 

In  many  parts  of  the  apple  producing  region,  a  dis- 
ease of  almost  equal  importance  to  scab  is  blotch.  This 
disease  not  only  reduces  the  quality  of  the  fruit,  but 
through  its  habit  of  growing  on  the  twigs,  causes  dam- 
age through  lessening  the  productiveness  of  the  branches. 


[  70  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

It  also  attacks  the  foliage,  but  not  to  so  great  an  extent 
as  scab. 

The  disease  is  first  noticeable  on  the  fruit,  where  it 
appears  as  small  star  shaped  black  spots.  These  enlarge 
rapidly  and  the  blackened  area  becomes  more  or  less 
swollen,  soon  showing  minute  black  pimples  from  which 
spores  are  liberated  for  the  further  dissemination  of  the 
disease.  These  black  spots  enlarge  and  run  together,  and 
as  the  apple  increases  in  size,  cracks  will  appear,  much  as 
in  the  case  of  scab. 

On  the  twigs,  blotch  produces  roughened  areas  called 
"cankers"  that  persist  from  year  to  year,  producing  spores 
from  which  the  annual  attacks  of  blotch  have  their 
source.  On  the  leaves  the  blotch  spots  appear  as  very 
small  yellowish  areas,  usually  not  sufficient  in  size  or 
number  to  cause  serious  trouble. 

CONTROL:  Since  the  disease  has  its  source  on  the  cank- 
ered twigs  and  branches,  much  relief  in  blotch  control  will 
come  from  cutting  out  all  of  these  cankers  that  are  observed 
when  doing  the  annual  pruning.  Spraying  must  be  begun 
before  the  disease  makes  its  start  on  the  fruit,  which  is  usually 
about  a  month  after  the  petals  fall.  Either  lime-sulphur  or 
bordeaux  mixture  may  be  used,  but  it  is  better  to  use  lime- 
sulphur  in  wet  weather,  as  it  is  less  liable  to  burn  or  russet 
the  fruit  under  such  conditions.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is 
usually  better  to  use  bordeaux  mixture  when  the  weather  is 
hot  and  dry.  The  first  application  should  be  made  about  three 
weeks  after  the  petals  fall,  which  is  about  the  time  the  second 
brood  of  codling  moth  worms  may  be  expected.  Another 
application  should  be  made  in  two  or  three  weeks,  and  a  third 
may  be  needed  two  or  three  weeks  later.  Since  the  last  two 
applications  come  at  the  right  time  for  bitter  rot  control,  both 
diseases  may  be  sprayed  for  at  the  same  time  when  bitter  rot 
is  expected. 

Bitter-Rot 

For  the  suddenness  of  its  appearance  and  the  great 
damage  that  it  causes,  bitter  rot  is  the  most  destructive 
of  all  fungous  diseases  of  the  apple  in  favorable  seasons. 
It  is  essentially  a  southern  disease  and  occurs  from  the 
Ozark  region  of  Missouri  eastward  and  southward  to 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  71  ] 

the  Atlantic  coast.  While  present  in  this  territory  every 
year,  it  is  only  in  seasons  when  climatic  conditions  are 
especially  favorable  for  its  development  that  bitter  rot 
causes  its  greatest  destruction.  In  such  seasons  the  apple 
crop  may  be  totally  ruined  in  a  few  days.  Crops  have 
been  barreled  without  the  observance  of  a  trace  of  bitter 
rot,  only  to  be  wholly  rotten  before  reaching  market. 

Bitter  rot  appears  on  the  fruit  from  June  to  October, 
but  the  hot  months  of  July  and  August  are  the  months 
in  which  it  usually  is  most  destructive. 

The  fungus  occurs  on  the  branches,  where  it  causes 
the  formation  of  dead  areas  called  "cankers"  from  which 
spores  are  liberated.  These  spores  are  carried  by  wind 
and  rain  to  the  fruit,  where  conditions  are  favorable  for 
their  growth  and  result  in  the  characteristic  rotting  of 
the  fruit.  On  the  fruit,  bitter  rot  causes  the  formation 
of  rotting  spots,  more  or  less  circular  and  marked  by 
rings,  one  within  the  other.  The  innermost  rings  usually 
show  minute  black  pimples  from  which  spores  ooze.  The 
rotten  spots  usually  are  more  or  less  depressed  or 
shrunken  below  the  normal  surface  of  the  apple,  and 
are  funnel  shaped  inwardly  toward  the  core.  Finally 
the  apple  is  wholly  decayed,  when  it  may  fall  or  may 
hang  on  the  tree  as  a  mummy  for  as  much  as  a  year. 
These  mummied  apples  are  a  source  of  infection  the  fol- 
lowing year,  and  should  be  removed  from  the  tree  when 
doing  the  pruning  in  winter.  The  cankered  limbs  and 
twigs  likewise  should  be  removed  as  they  are  the  chief 
source  of  infection. 

CONTROL:  Lime-sulphur  is  not  effective  in  the  control 
of  bitter  rot.  But  bordeaux  mixture,  applied  as  for  the  second 
and  third  blotch  spray  will  control  bitter  rot  quite  effectually, 
although  in  some  seasons  three  or  four  applications  may  be 
necessary. 

Cedar  Rust 

This  disease  is  peculiar  in  that  it  spends  part  of  its 
life  on  the  apple  and  part  on  the  red  cedar.  On  the  apple 


[  72  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

it  produced  yellow  spots  on  the  leaves.  The  lower  sur- 
face of  the  affected  leaves  show  peculiar  flask  shaped  pro- 
tuberances immediately  under  the  diseased  spots.  These 
protuberances  soon  open  with  a  fringe  around  their  tops 
and  give  rise  to  spores  for  the  further  dissemination  of 
the  disease.  The  fruit  often  is  attacked  in  a  similar 
manner,  thereby  decreasing  its  market  value,  while  the 
foliage  may  be  caused  to  drop  prematurely. 

From  the  apple,  the  spores  must  pass  back  to  the 
cedar  tree  before  the  life  cycle  is  complete.  On  the  cedar 
they  produce  the  "cedar  apples"  which  are  observed  in 
spring  because  of  the  queer  jelly-like,  orange  colored 
horns  that  appear  upon  them.  These  horns  give  rise  to 
the  spores  that  produce  the  disease  on  the  apple. 

CONTROL:  Cedar-apple  rust  does  not  yield  readily  to 
spraying,  chiefly  because  of  the  difficulty  of  getting  the  spray 
on  at  the  right  time,  as  the  disease  is  most  severe  right  at  the 
time  when  the  tree  is  growing  most  rapidly.  But  where  trees 
are  sprayed  with  lime-sulphur  at  the  rate  of  one  to  40  with 
sufficient  frequency  to  keep  the  new  leaves  coated,  spraying 
may  give  good  results.  It  is  better  however  to  remove  all 
red  cedar  trees  within  a  mile  of  the  orchard,  as  without  the 
cedar  trees  rust  cannot  continue. 

Blister  Canker 

This  is  essentially  a  disease  of  the  trunk  and  limbs 
of  apple  trees  which  die  as  a  result  of  the  infection.  Ben 
Davis  and  Gano  are  particularly  susceptible  and  great 
numbers  of  them  have  died  as  a  direct  result  of  blister 
canker.  This  fungus  gains  entrance  to  the  tree  through 
wounds  made  in  pruning,  particularly  where  limbs  of 
rather  large  size  are  removed  and  the  wound  left  with- 
out a  suitable  covering  of  paint. 

The  first  evidence  of  the  disease  usually  appears 
about  wounds,  where  the  bark  dies  for  a  considerable 
distance  above  or  below  the  wound.  The  bark  shows 
blister-like  protuberances  one-eighth  to  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  diameter  arranged  close  together  over  a  consid- 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  73  ] 

erable  portion  of  the  diseased  area.  These  dead  areas 
are  known  as  "cankers"  and  they  enlarge  so  rapidly 
that  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  years  from  the  time 
the  canker  has  made  its  first  appearance  on  the  bark,  the 
limb  will  be  girdled  and  dead. 

This  disease  cannot  be  controlled  by  spraying.  It 
is  a  wound  parasite,  as  the  spores  germinate  and  grow 
in  wounds,  and  it  may  exist  in  a  tree  for  several  years, 
completely  invading  the  entire  heart  wood  before  appear- 
ing on  the  surface.  It  makes  its  greatest  progress  in 
trees  suffering  from  drought,  under  which  conditions 
whole  trees  may  die  in  a  single  season. 

CONTROL:  Preventive  measures  only  can  be  relied  upon 
for  the  protection  of  trees  from  this  disease.  Wounds  should  be 
treated  with  a  solution  of  copper  sulphate  and  then  be  painted 
with  one  or  two  applications  of  white  lead  and  oil  or  with 
asphaltum.  The  disinfection  should  be  made  immediately  after 
pruning,  and  as  soon  as  the  wound  has  dried,  it  should  be 
painted.  A  second  coat  of  paint  should  be  made  when  the 
first  has  dried.  In  the  case  of  wounds  several  inches  in  diam- 
eter it  is  well  to  make  subsequent  applications  of  paint.  Where 
possible  avoid  the  planting  of  varieties  susceptible  to  blister 
canker. 

Sooty-Blotch;  Fly  Speck 

These  fungi  are  of  minor  importance  except  in  that 
they  soil  the  appearance  of  the  fruit.  Their  names  are 
sufficiently  descriptive  to  provide  identification,  since 
both  of  them  effect  only  the  skin  of  the  fruit,  where  the 
black  and  smoky  appearance  caused  by  them  spoils  the 
looks  of  the  fruit.  Usually  they  occur  on  apples  that 
are  on  the  lower  limbs  where  they  are  shaded,  uncolored 
and  more  or  less  protected  from  sun  and  free  circula- 
tion of  air  by  weeds  and  grass.  In  orchards  where  thor- 
ough spraying  is  done  for  scab  and  codling  moth,  neither 
of  these  fungi  are  of  any  importance.  They  are  simply 
evidences  of  neglect. 

Anthracnose 

This  disease  is  prevalent  in  the  apple  orchards  of  the 
Pacific  Northwest,  where  it  causes  dead  spots  or  cankers 


[  74  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

on  the  branches  of  apple  trees,  sooner  or  later  causing  the 
death  of  the  limbs. 

CONTROL:  Anthracnose  may  be  controlled  or  cleaned 
out  of  an  orchard  by  removing  the  cankers  and  spraying  with 
bordeaux  mixture  at  the  proper  times.  Since  the  spores  of  this 
fungus  are  disseminated  during  the  summer  months,  it  is  best 
to  make  an  application  of  6-6-50  bordeaux  immediately  after 
the  fruit  is  harvested  and  a  second  application  within  two 
weeks.  These  applications  should  be  made  in  such  a  way  as  to 
coat  the  limbs  of  the  trees  so  as  to  protect  them  from  the 
spores  of  the  disease. 

Mildew 

The  powdery  mildew  of  the  apple  is  chiefly  prevalent 
in  the  Pacific  coast  states,  although  it  occurs  on  nursery 
stock  throughout  most  of  the  country.  It  is  character- 
ized by  the  formation  of  a  whitish  mould  over  the  surface 
of  the  affected  twigs. 

CONTROL:  Mildew  does  not  yield  readily  to  the  standard 
sprays,  especially  bordeaux  mixture,  but  it  may  be  controlled 
by  applications  of  finely  divided  sulphur,  such  as  is  obtained 
when  lime-sulphur  made  up  at  the  rate  of  one  gallon  to  50  gal- 
lons of  water  are  mixed  with  three  pounds  of  iron  sulphate. 
This  results  in  the  formation  of  a  blackish  precipitate.  To  this 
mixture  arsenate  of  lead  may  be  added,  and  applications  made 
as  for  codling  moth  control. 

Blight 

Twig  blight  or  fire  blight  of  the  apple  is  gaining 
more  prominence  each  year  as  its  destructiveness  be- 
comes more  acute.  It  is  caused  by  a  bacterium,  the 
same  germ  which  causes  fire  blight  in  pears  and  quinces. 
In  the  apple  it  usually  manifests  itself  by  destroying  the 
cluster  of  blossoms  and  the  spur  on  which  they  are  borne, 
and  to  a  considerable  extent,  killing  the  twigs.  Young 
trees  often  are  seriously  damaged  by  blight.  It  usually 
runs  its  course  in  a  few  days,  although  its  presence  may 
not  be  known  until  the  leaves  begin  to  wither  and  turn 
brown. 

Blight  cannot  be  controlled  by  spraying.  It  can  be 
partially  controlled  by  cutting  out  the  affected  twigs 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [75] 

as  soon  as  observed,  but  in  a  commercial  way  that  is 
practically  impossible.  It  is  better  to  avoid  the  planting 
of  susceptible  varieties  such  as  Jonathan  and  Yellow 
Transparent. 

Disease  of  the  Pear 


Fire  Blight 

This  troublesome  disease  of  the  pear  is  caused  by  a 
bacterium  which  over-winters  in  canker  on  the  bark, 
from  which  a  syrupy  fluid  may  ooze  in  minute  drops 
early  in  the  spring.  These  drops  are  teeming  with  bac- 
teria and  some  of  this  ooze  gets  on  the  feet  and  beaks 
of  insects  and  is  carried  to  the  blossoms  and  tender 
growing  shoots.  Here  they  are  deposited  in  the  nec- 
taries of  the  blossoms  or  in  punctures  made  by  the  in- 
sects and  begin  their  career  of  destruction. 

Spraying  will  not  control  the  disease.  The  only 
known  means  of  control  is  to  cut  out  the  blighted  twigs, 
being  careful  to  sterilize  the  pruning  tool  with  corrosive 
sublimate  after  making  each  cut,  then  to  wet  the  wound 
with  the  same  solution,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  dry  to  coat 
it  with  white  lead  and  oil  or  with  asphaltum. 


Diseases  of  the  Peach 


Scab 

Scab  or  "freckles"  on.  the  peach  presents  much  the 
same  appearance  as  scab  on  apples.  The  affected  area 
is  black  and  a  considerable  portion  of  the  surface  may 
be  involved,  in  which  case  the  fruit  will  crack  and  the 
fruit  become  more  or  less  lopsided.  The  blackened, 
freckled  appearance  of  scabbed  fruit  is  often  thought  to 
be  a  normal  condition  and  not  due  to  a  disease.  But 
markets  are  discriminating  more  and  more  against  scabby 
peaches  and  the  peach  grower  who  neglects  this  disease 
is  losing  money  thereby. 


[  76  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

CONTROL:  Peach  scab  is  readily  controlled  with  an 
application  of  self-boiled  lime-sulphur  made  about  one  month 
after  the  petals  fall,  and  a  second  application  of  the  same  mix- 
ture three  or  four  weeks  later.  Usually  the  first  application 
is  sufficient. 

Brown  Rot 

This  disease  occurs  most  frequently  and  is  most  de- 
structive in  the  warmer  portions  of  the  country,  and  in 
favorable  seasons  has  caused  enormous  losses.  Its 
greatest  destructiveness  comes  on  the  fruit,  which  may 
be  attacked  just  as  it  is  ripening  and  bring  about  the 
complete  loss  of  the  fruit  before  it  has  time  to  reach  the 
market.  It  also  occurs  on  the  limbs  where  it  forms 
cankers,  and  on  the  leaves. 

Brown  rot  is  most  familiar  as  brown  mould  on  the 
rotting  fruit,  and  is  readily  distinguished  by  the  fact  that 
the  mould  appears  in  small  tufts  placed  closed  together. 
Fruit  that  is  infected  with  this  disease  rots  quickly,  and 
the  disease  may  attack  the  fruit  at  any  stage  from  the 
blossom  to  the  maturity.  Fruit  that  is  injured  in  some 
manner,  as  by  the  puncture  of  curculio  is  much  more  sub- 
ject to  this  disease  than  fruit  not  so  punctured. 

CONTROL:  Peaches  which  are  sprayed  with  self -boiled 
lime-sulphur  just  after  the  shucks  fall  from  the  newly  set  fruit 
and  again  in  about  three  weeks  or  a  month  rarely  suffer  any 
appreciable  loss  from  brown  rot  This  is  especially  true  if 
arsenate  of  lead  is  added  to  the  spray  mixture  in  order  to  con- 
trol the  curculio. 

Leaf-Curl 

This  name  is  descriptive  of  the  disease.  It  occurs 
early  in  the  spring  and  causes  the  leaves  to  curl  and 
twist  some  of  which  become  mouldy  in  appearance.  The 
affected  leaves  soon  fall  and  the  tree  must  make  a  new 
crop  from  the  dormant  buds. 

CONTROL:  While  peach  leaf  curl  is  an  exceedingly  seri- 
ous disease  in  the  cooler  portion  of  the  country  it  yields 
readily  to  any  of  the  standard  fungicides,  when  these  are  applied 
early  enough  in  the  season.  Spraying  should  be  done  before 
the  buds  swell  in  the  spring,  or  the  application  may  be  made 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  77  ] 

in  the  fall  with  lime-sulphur  as  for  San  Jose  scale.     Spraying 
done  after  the  buds  swell  in  the  spring  is  useless. 


Diseases  of  the  Plum 


Brown  Rot 

This  is  the  same  disease  as  occurs  on  peaches  and 
cherries  and  control  is  effected  in  the  same  way. 

Black  Knot 

Plums  and  cherries  suffer  much  damage  from  the 
fungus  which  causes  the  formation  of  conspicuous  black 
knots  on  the  twigs  and  limbs.  Severe  attacks  are  com- 
mon and  the  growing  of  plums  becomes  a  discourag- 
ing business  unless  the  knots  are  cut  out  and  burned 
immediately.  That  is  the  most  effective  measure  of  con- 
trol. It  should  be  done  co-operatively  by  the  entire 
neighborhood,  and  wild  plum  trees  treated  in  a  similar 
manner.  Several  applications  of  bordeaux  mixture  is 
also  helpful,  as  spores  are  liberated  from  the  knots 
throughout  the  entire  year. 


Diseases  of  the  Cherry 

Cherry  Leaf  Blfeht 

This  disease  causes  a  yellowing  of  the  foliage  early 
in  the  summer,  usually  in  June,  with  the  consequent 
dropping  of  the  leaves.  It  occurs  on  bearing  trees  and 
nursery  stock. 

CONTROL:  Spray  the  trees  with  lime-sulphur,  one  to 
50  to  which  one  and  one-quarter  pounds  of  iron  sulphate  is 
added.  Make  the  first  application  when  the  shucks  are  falling 
from  the  newly  set  fruit;  make  a  second  application  two  weeks 
later;  a  third  application  just  after  the  fruit  has  been  picked 
and  a  fourth  application  about  four  weeks  later  if  necessary. 

Brown  Rot 

This  is  the  same  disease  that  attacks  the  peach,  and 
it  is  controlled  in  the  same  manner.  Or  where  spraying 


[  78  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

is  done  as  above  described  for  cherry  leaf  spot,  the  brown 
rot  and  mildew  will  also  be  controlled. 

Mildew 

This  disease  is  usually  found  on  the  young  sprouts 
and  tips  of  the  branches  where  it  affects  the  foliage  and 
wood.  The  surface  of  the  infected  parts  becomes  whitish 
in  appearance  because  of  the  growth  of  the  mould,  and 
when  the  disease  is  allowed  to  go  uncontrolled,  it  will 
cause  the  defoliation  of  the  tree. 

CONTROL:  Mildew  may  be  controlled  by  the  same  spray 
as  above  given  for  cherry  leaf  spot.  Add  arsenate  of  lead  to 
the  first  two  applications  for  the  curculio. 


Diseases  of  the  Grape 

Black  Rot 

This  world  wide  disease  of  the  grape  in  some  years 
causes  great  losses  to  grape  growers,  although  it  is  not 
equally  serious  every  season.  It  is  a  fungous  disease 
which  appears  on  the  leaves  as  small  brown  spots,  and 
later  on  the  fruit  will  turn  black  and  shrivel  up. 

CONTROL:  Thorough  spraying  with  bordeaux  mixture 
will  hold  the  disease  in  check.  The  first  application  should  be 
made  when  the  second  leaves  appear;  a  second  application 
should  be  made  before  the  blossoms  open;  a  third  after  the 
blossoms  have  fallen,  and  at  intervals  of  ten  days  thereafter 
in  years  favorable  for  the  disease.  Each  application  should  be 
made  with  great  thoroughness. 

Mildew 

Two  destructive  mildews  occur  on  the  grapes.  One 
produces  a  mouldy  appearance  on  the  leaves,  tender 
growing  shoots  and  clusters  of  young  grapes.  This  is 
the  downy  mildew.  The  other  produces  yellowish  or 
whitish  spots  over  the  leaves,  producing  a  mottled  ap- 
pearance. These  spots  may  run  together  and  cover  the 
entire  leaf.  The  berries  will  be  attacked,  dwarfed,  and 
caused  to  drop.  The  surface  of  these  yellow  spots  will 
be  found  to  have  a  mouldy  appearance  among  which  are 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  79  ] 

minute  black  or  orange  colored  bodies.    This  is  the  pow- 
dery mildew. 

CONTROL:  Vines  that  are  treated  for  black  rot  usually 
do  not  suffer  from  powdery  mildew  to  a  great  extent,  and 
downy  mildew  is  completely  controlled.  Grapes  of  European 
origin  should  be  dusted  with  sulphur,  but  not  so  with  Ameri- 
can varieties,  for  the  control  of  powdery  mildew. 

Diseases  of  the  Raspberry  and  Blackberry 

Anthracnose 

Raspberry  and  blackberry  canes  affected  by  anthrac- 
nose  show  a  spotted  appearance.  The  spots  at  first  are 
small  and  purplish,  but  as  they  increase  in  size  they 
become  more  or  less  elliptical  and  the  center  turns 
whitish  and  slightly  raised  above  the  healthy  tissue.  In 
more  aggravated  cases  the  canes  will  become  cankered, 
the  bark  splits  lengthwise  and  the  canes  take  on  a  decided 
unhealthy  appearance. 

CONTROL:  After  the  fruiting  season  is  over,  clean  out 
all  of  the  old  canes,  keep  down  the  weeds,  and  when  doing  the 
annual  pruning,  cut  out  all  canes  showing  infection  with  the 
disease.  Make  a  thorough  application  of  lime-sulphur,  two 
and  one-half  to  50,  before  the  leaves  appear;  make  a  second 
application  when  the  young  shoots  are  about  six  inches  long 
with  lime-sulphur,  one  and  one-half  to  50,  and  a  third  appli- 
cation just  before  the  bloom  appears  with  the  same  dilution  of 
lime-sulphur.  Later  sprayings  may  be  necessary  and  the  time 
of  application  will  depend  on  seasonal  conditions.  Anthracnose 
is  a  troublesome  disease  to  control  and  only  persistent  effort 
in  its  control  will  pay.  Cultural  measures  which  keep  the  plan- 
tation in  a  vigorous  condition  is  essential  and  will  go  a  long 
ways  toward  keeping  the  plantation  healthy. 

Orange  Rust 

This  is  a  well  known  raspberry  and  blackberry  dis- 
ease, producing  the  characteristic  orange  colored  rust 
on  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves  in  the  spring  and 
early  summer.  Affected  leaves  are  smaller  than  normal 
leaves,  and  after  the  scores  are  liberated,  the  leaves  die, 
but  the  affected  plants  are  stunted  and  not  killed. 

CONTROL:  The  fungus  is  perennial;  that  is  it  lives  over 
from  year  to  year  in  the  cames  and  roots  of  the  affected  plants, 


[80]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

and  reappears  each  season.  On  this  account,  spraying  is  of 
little  service  and  control  measures  must  rely  on  digging  out 
the  affected  plants  and  burning  them  as  soon  as  the  disease  is 
observed. 

Leaf  Spot 

Blackberries  and  dewberries  frequently  are  consider- 
ably damaged  by  a  fungus  which  causes  the  formation 
of  many  small  diseased  areas  on  the  leaves  early  in  sum- 
mer. When  these  spots  are  numerous  the  leaves  will 
dry  up  and  die,  thereby  resulting  in  weakened  plants 
and  lessened  fruitfulness. 

CONTROL:  Spraying  with  bordeaux  mixture  before  the 
leaves  appear  in  the  spring  and  again  just  before  the  blossoms 
appear  will  control  this  disease. 

Diseases  of  the  Strawberry 

Mildew 

When  strawberry  plants  are  affected  by  mildew,  the 
leaves  curl  upward  and  present  some  such  appearance 
as  plants  suffering  from  drought.  On  close  examination 
the  mildew  will  be  observed  on  the  lower  surface  of  the 
leaves.  The  fungus  also  attacks  the  berries,  which  are 
rendered  tasteless  and  of  no  market  value  as  they  dry 
up  before  reaching  maturity. 

CONTROL:  Little  is  known  about  means  of  controlling 
mildew.  But  it  has  been  observed  that  fields  that  are  mowed 
and  renewed  immediately  after  fruiting,  and  thoroughly  sprayed 
for  rust  suffer  but  little  from  mildew. 

Leaf  Spot  or  Rust 

Some  varieties  of  strawberries  suffer  greatly  from 
leaf  spot  fungus,  which  causes  the  formation  on  the 
leaves  of  small  circular  dead  spots  which  are  bordered 
with  red  or  purple  ring.  These  spots  may  become  so 
numerous  as  to  cause  the  foliage  to  die.  Old  leaves  are 
more  seriously  affected  than  young  leaves. 

CONTROL:  Use  varieties  known  to  be  least  affected. 
Spray  with  bordeaux  mixture  before  the  blossoms  open.  Mow 
and  burn  the  foliage  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  picked,  and  should 
the  disease  reappear  later  in  the  season  make  another  applica- 
tion of  bordeaux  mixture. 


Hayes  Sprayer  in  a  Virginia  Orchard^ 


Hayes  Sprayer  in  an  Illinois  Orchard 


[  Page  81  ] 


The  Hayes  Fruit-Fog  Gun  is  SPEED  equipment.  One  man  handles  the 
full  capacity  of  a  power  sprayer  and  will  spray  an  entire  orchard  as  quickly 
as  three  or  four  men  with  regular  equipment. 

A  simple  twist  of  the  handle  adjusts  the  nozzle  to  shoot  a  column  of 
spray  to  the  very  top  of  the  tallest  tree.  This  column  is  composed  of  mil- 
lions of  minute  particles  and  when  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  tree  diffuses  into 


[  Page  82  ] 


a    FRUIT-FOG   spray — a   mist   which   penetrates    thoroughly   and    does   a   job 
of  maximum  thoroughness  for  gun  spraying. 

For  "close-up"  work  the  operator  merely  turns  the  handle  the  opposite 
way,  making  a  wide,  soft  spray  which  covers  an  arc  of  90°.  This  "close-up" 
spray  is  a  FRUIT-FOG  spray — so  finely  atomized  that  it  resembles  a  mist. 
Thousands  of  orchardists  who  have  witnessed  increased  yields  after  Fruit- 
Fogging  their  trees,  know  its  wonderful  efficiency. 


[  Page  83  ] 


Hayes  Barrel  Sprayer  Operated  from  a  Wagon 


Hayes  Sprayer  in  an  Oregon  Orchard 


[  Page  84  ] 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [85] 

Diseases  of  Vegetables 
Those  Affecting  the  Potato 

Early  Blight 

This  fungous  disease  appears  in  the  North  early  in 
the  season  while  in  the  South  it  occurs  on  the  fall  crop 
of  potatoes.  The  disease  is  marked  by  the  appearance 
of  black  spots  on  the  leaves,  which  spots  as  they  enlarge 
are  marked  by  faint  concentric  rings.  Eventally  the 
leaves  yellow  and  die  with  the  consequent  decrease  in 
the  yield  of  potatoes.  Control  of  this  disease  is  affected 
by  spraying  as  described  for  late  blight. 

Late  Blight 

By  far  the  greater  loss  to  the  potato  crop  comes 
from  attacks  of  the  late  blight  fungus.  This  causes  the 
most  serious  and  destructive  of  all  potato  diseases,  and 
its  control  is  of  far  greater  consequence  than  the  con- 
trol of  the  ever  present  Colorado  potato  beetle.  Although 
late  blight  may  not  occur  in  a  dangerous  way  every  year 
its  ability  to  create  sudden  havoc  is  so  great  that  every 
potato  grower,  no  matter  whether  he  has  but  a  small 
patch  in  the  dooryard  or  a  large  acreage  of  potatoes, 
should  forego  the  safeguarding  of  his  crop  by  thorough 
and  persistent  spraying.  Several  applications  of  bor- 
deaux mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead  give  protection  from 
this  disease,  and  control  many  of  the  other  pests  of  the 
potato  at  the  same  time.  That  this  has  a  distinct  value 
in  increasing  the  yield  of  potato  tubers  is  indicated  by 
results  obtained  in  several  states.  In  New  York  state, 
the  experiment  station  found  that  in  a  ten-year  period 
an  average  gain  of  60  bushels  an  acre  was  obtained;  in 
Vermont,  over  a  20-year  period  the  average  gain 
amounted  to  105  bushels  per  acre. 

Late  blight  develops  after  the  potatoes  have  blos- 
somed, and  is  most  severe  toward  the  end  of  the  grow- 
ing season.  It  appears  as  purplish  or  blackish  areas, 


[  86  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

which  if  examined  when  wet  with  dew,  show  a  deli- 
cate, powdery  bloom  on  the  undersides  of  the  leaves. 
If  weather  conditions  are  warm  and  humid,  the  entire 
field  may  die  in  a  very  few  days,  and  a  foul  odor,  char- 
acteristic of  the  disease  will  be  evident. 

The  blighting  of  the  foliage  is  followed  by  a  decay 
of  the  tubers,  which  usually  appears  as  a  dry  rot. 

CONTROL  FOR  BLIGHTS  AND  INSECTS:  When  the 
first  evidence  of  flea  beetles  or  Colorado  potato  beetles  is  ob- 
served make  an  application  of  bordeaux  mixture  and  arsenate 
of  lead.  Repeat  this  application  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks 
to  keep  all  of  the  foliage  protected.  In  the  North,  after  the 
middle  of  July,  it  may  be  necessary  to  make  applications  every 
five  or  seven  days,  especially  if  the  weather  is  showery  and 
warm. 

Tip  Burn 

When  hot  dry  weather  follows  a  wet  period,  and 
especially  when  the  potato  field  suffers  from  attacks  of 
flea  beetles,  aphis  or  leaf  hoppers,  the  margins  and  tips 
of  the  leaves  will  die  and  curl  resulting  in  a  lessened 
yield.  This  is  purely  a  physiological  trouble  and  not 
due  to  a  fungus. 

CONTROL:  When  the  potato  field  is  sprayed  as  above, 
the  damage  from  tip  burn  will  be  greatly  lessened. 

Scab 

This  is  a  disease  of  the  tubers,  where  it  appears  as 
roughened  spots  or  warts,  more  or  less  numerous  accord- 
ing to  the  degree  of  infection. 

CONTROL:  The  scab  fungus  persists  in  the  soil  from 
year  to  year,  and  potatoes  should  be  rotated  with  other  crops 
and  not  planted  on  the  same  soil  oftener  than  once  in  three 
years,  particularly  if  scab  is  prevalent  on  the  crop.  Seed 
potatoes  should  be  soaked  for  one  and  one-half  hours  in  a 
solution  of  formalin  made  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  of  formalin 
to  30  gallons  of  water.  This  is  equivalent  to  approximately 
one-half  fluid  ounce  of  formalin  to  one  gallon  of  water.  Then 
cut  and  plant  as  usual. 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  87  ] 

Disease  of  Celery 

Leaf-Blight 

Two  leaf-blights  affect  celery,  one  appearing  early  in 
the  seed  bed,  the  other  on  mature  plants  and  continuing 
after  harvest.  In  some  seasons  these  fungi  cause  serious 
losses  through  the  destruction  of  the  leaf  surface. 

CONTROL:  Both  may  be  controlled  by  spraying  with 
bordeaux  mixture  when  the  spotting  of  the  leaves  is  first  ob- 
served. Bordeaux  mixture  should  not  be  used  within  two  or 
three  weeks  of  the  time  the  plants  are  cut  for  market. 

Disease  of  Cucumber 


Mildew 

Downy  mildew  is  a  most  serious  disease  of  the 
cucumber,  and  is  commonly  known  among  growers  as 
blight.  This  fungus  causes  the  leaves  to  become  mottled 
with  yellow,  show  dead  spots  and  then  dry  up. 

CONTROL:  Make  an  application  of  bordeaux  mixture 
when  the  plants  arc  beginning  to  run,  and  repeat  at  intervals 
of  ten  days  until  the  vines  cover  the  field. 


Disease  of  Beans 

Anthracnose 

Bean  growers  sometimes  call  this  disease  "rust."  It 
is  caused  by  a  fungus  and  is  carried  over  from  season  to 
season  on  the  seed  where  it  appears  as  a  small  black  or 
dead  spot  on  the  seed.  On  green  beans,  anthracnose  is 
conspicuous  on  the  pods,  where  it  forms  black,  rough- 
ened spots  of  considerable  size  on  the  pods.  When  these 
spots  are  numerous  the  pods  are  unfit  for  market.  It 
also  attacks  the  leaves  and  causes  them  to  wither  and 
dry  up. 

CONTROL:  Since  the  disease  can  be  detected  quite  easily 
on  the  seeds,  careful  hand  sorting  of  the  seeds  so  as  to  throw 
out  all  affected  seeds  will  lessen  the  possibility  of  infection  in 
the  field.  Application  of  bordeaux  mixture  will  render  the 
foliage  less  liable  to  infection.  The  first  application  should  be 
made  when  the  beans  appear  above  the  soil,  a  second  applica- 
tion when  the  first  pair  of  leaves  expand  and  a  third  when  the 
pods  have  set. 


[  88  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

CHAPTER  V 
How  to  Spray 

VEN  at  its  best,  spraying  is  a  messy  job.  There- 
fore,  when  you  get  ready  to  spray,  put  on  clothes 
that  you  don't  mind  having  spoiled  if  a  little 
spray  mixture  gets  on  them.  This  applies  especially  to 
the  back-yard  gardener  who  has  a  few  potato  vines  or  a 
current  bush  to  spray  at  the  end  of  his  day's  work. 

Be  Thorough  in  Your  Spraying 

It  is  better  to  spray  one  plant  well  than  to  spatter  a 
little  spray  over  the  whole  place.  Spraying  is  merely  a 
preventive.  The  parts  of  the  plant  untouched  by  spray 
are  unprotected.  Approach  your  plant,  no  matter  whether 
it  is  an  apple  tree  or  a  cucumber  plant,  with  full  deter- 
mination that  you  will  spray  it  thoroughly,  and  then  go 
at  it.  Hold  the  nozzle  far  enough  away  from  the  leaves 
that  the  solid  part  of  the  spray  does  not  strike,  but  close 
enough  so  that  the  fine  mist,  the  Fruit-Fog,  can  wet  the 
foliage  and  float  through  the  tree.  This  fine  mist,  the 
Fruit-Fog,  will  completely  cover  the  leaves  without  drip- 
ping. That  is  the  ideal  condition  to  strive  for,  and  a 
little  experience  will  teach  you  just  how  close  or  how 
far  away  from  the  leaves  is  the  best  place  for  the  noz- 
zle. It  will  vary  from  six  inches  to  six  feet  according 
to  the  size  of  the  spraying  outfit,  size  of  the  nozzle  and 
the  pressure  that  is  used. 

Get  Ready  Early 

Too  much  stress  cannot  be  laid  on  this.  Get  your 
sprayer  before  the  last  minute.  This  is  especially  im- 
portant in  the  case  of  fruit  growers  who  have  just  bought 
or  leased  an  orchard,  or  who  are  buying  to  replace  a  new 
machine.  If  you  would  normally  make  your  first  appli- 
cation of  spray  in  February,  buy  your  sprayer  the  fall 
before.  That  will  give  time  for  the  machine  to  reach 
you  and  for  you  to  give  it  a  thorough  try-out  before  you 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  89  ] 

will  need  to  take  it  to  the  orchard  for  work.  Many  good 
crops  of  fruit  are  lost  each  year  because  of  this  neglect 
of  buying  the  sprayer  until  the  very  last  minute.  Then 
if  the  freight  is  delayed,  the  spraying  cannot  be  done 
on  time,  and  the  results  are  less  satisfactory. 

Buy  your  sprayer  early. 

Buy  your  spray  materials  early,  too.  Prices  on  mate- 
rials are  usually  lower  in  the  fall  than  in  the  spring,  and 
early  buying  saves  money  as  well  as  time. 

Where  you  are  using  a  pump  you  have,  be  very  sure 
the  pump  is  cleaned  and  oiled  and  all  ready  for  use.  Give 
the  whole  outfit  a  thorough  overhauling  well  in  advance 
of  the  time  it  will  be  used.  Replace  all  rubber  and 
leather  gaskets  and  pump  packing  with  new  parts.  Some 
very  necessary  part  may  be  too  badly  worn  to  last  and 
will  need  repairing  or  replacement.  Where  this  is  not 
discovered  in  advance  it  means  delay  at  a  critical  time. 
Overhaul  your  sprayer  and  give  it  a  good  tryout  well  in 
advance  of  the  spraying  season.  Then  be  sure  to  drain 
out  all  of  the  water  from  pump,  tank  and  engine  to  pre- 
vent breakage  from  freezing. 

Be  sure  of  an  adequate  supply  of  water.  Droughts, 
breakage  of  the  irrigation  ditch,  overflows,  and  many 
other  conditions  have  prematurely  cut  short  a  spraying 
program.  Be  sure  of  a  good  water  supply,  and  if  pos- 
sible use  clear  water  rather  than  the  muddy  water  of 
ponds.  The  grit  in  such  water  causes  excessive  wear  on 
the  spray  pump.  In  orchards  of  large  acreage,  it  is  a 
money-making  investment  to  have  a  water  wagon  that 
will  keep  the  sprayer  supplied.  Prune  the  trees  before 
spraying.  A  better  job  of  spraying  can  be  done  and  mate- 
rial will  be  saved. 

Use  a  Spray  Gun 

Where  power  sprayers  are  operated,  it  is  distinct 
economy  of  both  material  and  labor  to  use  a  spray  gun 
instead  of  rods  and  nozzles.  Spray  guns  are  simply  noz- 


[  90  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

zles  of  large  capacity  and  are  used  without  extension 
rods.  Their  construction  is  such  that  the  stream  may 
be  varied  from  a  wide  angle,  short  distance  spray  for 
use  on  low  branches,  to  a  narrow  angle,  long  distance 
spray  that  will  reach  the  top-most  branches  of  tall  trees. 
One  gun  will  use  the  full  capacity  of  a  large  power  outfit. 

Hayes*  Fruit-Fog  gun  is  typical  of  the  better  makes 
of  spray  guns.  It  has  a  length  of  23  inches  and  weighs 
slightly  less  than  two  and  one-half  pounds.  It  is  made 
entirely  of  brass,  with  a  large  nozzle  at  one  end  while 
the  hose  connection  and  shut-off  handle  are  at  the  other 
end.  The  gun  is  opened  for  spraying  by  a  slight  twist 
of  the  handle  to  the  left,  pulling  the  handle  to  you  at  the 
same  time.  It  is  shut  off  by  reversing  this  movement. 

High  pressure  is  of  utmost  importance  in  gun  spray- 
ing, and  where  the  pump  is  working  at  300  pounds,  a 
Fruit-Fog  gun  simply  eats  up  the  job.  Because  of  the 
lightning-quick  control,  for  opening  or  closing  the  nozzle, 
spraying  with  a  gun  is  much  more  economical  than  when 
the  same  work  is  done  with  rods  and  nozzles.  There  is 
no  waste  of  solution  when  passing  from  tree  to  tree. 
There  is  no  drenching  of  the  foliage,  and  it  is  surprising 
how  little  of  the  spray  will  be  blown  back  on  the  operator. 

For  the  lower  branches  of  trees,  the  wide  angle  spray 
from  the  gun  is  best.  With  a  Hayes*  Fruit-Fog  gun  this 
is  obtained  by  a  slight  twist  and  pull  on  the  handle  to 
the  left.  A  notch  in  the  cam  surface  inside  the  nozzle 
catches  a  pin  in  the  shut-off  rod  and  holds  it  firmly. 
For  the  high  tops,  a  slight  twist  of  the  handle  still  more 
to  the  left  draws  the  shut-off  rod  below  the  center  hole 
in  the  whirl  chamber,  permitting  the  liquid  to  pass 
straight  through  the  hole  in  the  disc.  In  this  case,  the 
solution  will  be  driven  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  from  the 
nozzle  in  a  fog  like  stream.  Such  a  spray  is  admirable 
for  reaching  the  high  tops  of  trees.  It  does  away  entirely 
with  the  need  for  extension  rods  and  thousands  of  fruit 
growers  are  enthusiastic  in  their  praise. 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  91  ] 

When  using  a  spray  gun,  the  operator  should  be  care- 
ful to  select  a  disc  that  has  a  hole  of  such  size  that  the 
pressure  on  the  pump  will  not  be  reduced  below  the 
desired  point.  A  hole  that  is  too  large  will  let  the  pres- 
sure drop.  A  hole  that  is  too  small  will  not  utilize  the 
full  capacity  of  the  sprayer.  Remember,  the  gun  in  speed 
equipment.  It  is  intended  that  one  gun  shall  use  the  full 
capacity  of  the  sprayer.  Use  hose  of  large  diameter  and 
short  length.  For  general  purposes  and  with  power  out- 
fits having  a  capacity  less  than  10  gallons  a  minute,  the 
hose  should  not  be  over  30  feet  in  length  nor  smaller 
than  one-half  inch  in  diameter.  For  sprayers  of  larger 
capacity,  or  greater  lengths  than  30  feet,  use  three-quar- 
ter inch  hose.  Spray  guns  give  best  results  when  oper- 
ated at  high  pressure,  and  pressure  losses  are  due  to 
using  hose  of  too  great  a  length  or  of  too  small  diameter. 

When  you  buy  a  spray  gun,  study  the  directions  for 
using  it.  The  manufacturers  have  done  much  experi- 
menting with  their  guns,  and  in  their  directions,  they 
supply  you  with  exact  information  which  will  enable  you 
to  get  the  best  results.  Don't  expect  to  get  good  results 
from  the  gun  with  a  barrel  sprayer  operated  by  hand. 
Such  a  pump  does  not  have  sufficient  capacity  or  power. 
Do  not  try  to  use  two  guns  on  one  sprayer  unless  you 
use  a  much  smaller  disc  than  is  necessary  where  the  full 
capacity  of  the  sprayer  is  being  handled  by  one  gun. 
Further,  do  not  expect  as  good  distribution  of  spray  or 
economy  of  labor  where  you  use  two  guns  with  one 
sprayer. 

No  invention  of  recent  years  is  of  more  value  to  fruit 
growers  than  the  spray  gun.  It  has  eliminated  much  of 
the  drudgery  of  spraying.  It  enables  one  man  to  do  the 
work  of  two,  and  do  it  better.  It  reduces  the  quantity 
of  material  required  to  cover  the  trees,  as  the  higher 
pressure  obtained  from  a  gun  gives  a  more  finely  atom- 
ized spray,  and  consequently  better  distribution.  The 
spray  gun  is  a  money  maker  for  the  fruit  grower  who 
uses  a  power  sprayer. 


[  92  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

Spraying  Program 


Apples 

DORMANT:  Make  application  in  early  spring  just  as  the 
buds  are  beginning  to  swell.  Use  lime-sulphur  having  a  strength 
of  32  degrees,  diluted  at  the  rate  of  one  to  eight.  If  aphis 
eggs  are  found  on  the  branches,  delay  this  application  until  the 
buds  are  beginning  to  burst  and  the  young  aphids  are  observed. 
Then  to  the  above  solution  add  nicotine  sulphate  of  40  per  cent 
strength  at  the  rate  of  three-fourths  pint  to  100  gallons  of  spray. 

Summer  Sprays 

1st  Spray — As  the  buds  are  showing  pink,  use  lime-sulphur 
(32  degrees  Beaume)  at  the  rate  of  one  to  40,  to  which  arsenate 
of  lead  is  added,  two  pounds  paste  or  one  pound  powder  to 
50  gallons. 

2nd  Spray— When  the  petals  have  all  fallen.  This  is  the 
important  spray  for  codling  moth  control.  Use  the  same  solu- 
tions as  in  1st  summer  spray. 

3rd  Spray — From  ten  days  to  two  weeks  later  repeat  with 
the  same  solution. 

4th  Spray — Latter  part  of  July.  Repeat  with  same  solu- 
tion. Bordeaux  mixture  instead  of  lime-sulphur  may  be  used 
in  this  application  in  case  blotch  or  bitter  rot  must  be  com- 
bated. 

5th  Spray — It  is  not  necessary  that  more  applications  be 
made  except  in  cases  of  bitter  rot,  when  the  time  of  applying 
will  be  governed  by  weather  conditions.  Bordeaux  mixture 
should  be  used,  as  lime-sulphur  is  not  effective  in  bitter  rot 
control. 

Peaches  —  Cherries  —  Plums 

DORMANT:  Make  application  before  buds  swell  in  early 
spring,  using  lime-sulphur  as  in  the  case  of  apples.  This 
application  is  effective  for  peach  leaf  curl  as  well  as  San  Jose 
scale. 

Summer  Sprays 

1st  Spray — When  the  shucks  are  all  off  the  newly  formed 
fruits,  apply  self-boiled  lime-sulphur  containing  two  pounds 
arsenate  of  lead  to  50  gallons. 

2nd  Spray — Make  a  second  application  of  the  same  solu- 
tion two  or  three  weeks  later,  except  in  the  case  of  early 
cherries. 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [93] 

3rd  Spray — Late  peaches,  cherries  and  plums  may  need 
a  third  application  about  a  month  before  the  fruit  ripens,  to 
protect  from  brown  rot.  Omit  the  arsenate  of  lead  in  this 
application. 

Self-boiled  lime-sulphur  may  be  omitted  from  the  first  sum- 
mer application,  using  arsenate  of  lead  alone.  Commercial 
brands  should  not  be  used  on  peaches  since  they  may  seriously 
injure  the  foliage,  unless  diluted  at  the  rate  of  one  to  70. 

Grapes 

1st  Spray — Use  bordeaux  mixture  when  the  shoots  are 
eight  or  ten  inches  long. 

2nd  Spray — Use  bordeaux  mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead 
just  before  blooming,  (3rd  spray)  repeating  when  the  blos- 
soms have  fallen. 

4th  Spray — Repeat  in  about  ten  days. 

When  leaf  hoppers  are  present  add  nicotine  sulphate  to  the 
bordeaux  mixture. 

Do  not  use  lime-sulphur  on  grapes  as  it  has  a  tendency 
to  dwarf  the  vines. 

Currants  and  Gooseberries 

1st  Spray — When  scales  are  present,  use  a  dormant  appli- 
cation of  lime-sulphur.  If  scales  are  not  present  this  applica- 
tion may  be  omitted. 

2nd  Spray — If  worms  appear  apply  bordeaux  mixture  and 
arsenate  of  lead  as  the  leaves  appear.  Repeat  before  the  fruit 
is  one-fourth  grown.  Any  later  applications  should  be  of  helle- 
bore or  pyrethrum  to  avoid  making  the  fruit  unfit  for  use. 

How  to  Spray  the  Garden 

Spraying  is  an  important  operation  in  the  garden,  just 
as  in  the  orchard,  for  the  control  of  insects  and  fungi. 
But  it  is  a  simpler  operation  as  large  power  sprayers 
are  unnecessary,  except  in  the  case  of  large  truck  farms. 
Small  sprayers,  such  as  the  Hayes  Bucket,  Boss  Com- 
pressed Air  and  Atomizers  find  their  greatest  use  in 
the  garden.  Less  definite  spraying  schedules  can  be 
provided  for  the  garden  than  for  the  orchard  as  climatic 
conditions  and  dates  at  which  the  various  crops  are 
planted  have  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  dates  at  which 


[  94  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

any  spraying  may  be  required.  It  behooves  the  gar- 
dener, however,  to  be  on  the  sharp  lookout  for  insects  or 
disease  and  spray  accordingly.  Some  garden  crops  sel- 
dom need  to  be  sprayed,  at  any  time,  while  others  are 
greatly  benefited  whether  insects  or  disease  are  present 
or  not.  This  is  especially  true  in  the  case  of  potatoes. 
In  spraying  garden  crops  remember  to  use  poisons,  such 
as  arsenate  of  lead  or  Paris  green  for  chewing  insects; 
nicotine  sulphate  for  sucking  insects,  such  as  plant  lice; 
and  bordeaux  mixture  for  fungous  diseases. 

Potatoes 

Potato  seed  should  be  soaked  one  and  one-half  hours 
in  a  solution  of  formalin,  made  at  the  rate  of  one  pound 
of  formaldehyde  in  thirty  gallons  of  water  or  one  ounce 
in  two  gallons  of  water.  Then  cut  and  plant  as  usual. 
This  treatment  is  for  the  control  of  scab  on  the  tubers. 

1st  Spray — This  should  be  made  when  the  potatoes  are  not 
more  than  six  inches  high  and  be  repeated  at  intervals  of  not 
more  than  ten  days  until  five  or  six,  sometimes  as  many  as  ten 
applications  have  been  made.  This  is  more  important  in  locali- 
ties where  early  and  late  blights  are  present  than  elsewhere. 
The  materials  to  use  are  bordeaux  mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead 
with  nicotine  sulphate  when  aphis  are  present.  The  spraying 
should  be  thoroughly  done.  Just  slopping  on  the  spray  mix- 
ture in  any  old  way  is  a  waste  of  time  and  material.  But  by 
making  the  application  with  a  suitable  sprayer,  wetting  both 
sides  of  every  leaf  on  the  plants,  and  being  sure  that  the  spray 
mixture  is  made  up  in  the  right  way,  is  certain  to  give  success. 

These  repeated  applications  of  spray  are  an  insurance  against 
crop  losses.  The  popular  opinion  that  "bugs"  are  the  im- 
portant thing  to  spray  for  is  only  part  of  the  truth.  In  addition 
to  bugs,  are  the  flea  beetles,  blister  beetles,  aphis,  early  blight, 
late  blight,  and  tip  burn.  Each  of  these  pests  and  diseases 
takes  its  toll  from  the  potato  crop,  and  when  all  act  together, 
is  it  any  wonder  the  crop  may  not  make  more  than  fifty  bushels 
to  the  acre?  Where  the  vines  are  systematically  sprayed  with 
bordeaux  mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead  from  the  time  the  plants 
appear  above  the  soil  until  the  vines  are  mature,  they  will  have 
been  protected  from  the  devastations  of  insects  and  disease  and 
all  of  their  energy  expended  on  the  production  of  tubers  rather 
than  upon  fattening  the  bugs, 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  95  ] 

Cucumbers,  Melons  and  Squash 

1st  Spray — When  the  plants  are  six  to  eight  inches  high, 
spray  with  bordeaux  mixture  and  arsenate  of  lead,  taking  care 
to  wet  upper  and  lower  surfaces  of  each  leaf.  Where  aphis 
are  present,  add  nicotine  sulphate  to  this  spray.  Make  a  sec- 
ond application  a  week  later,  and  subsequent  sprayings  every 
week  or  ten  days  until  all  danger  from  damage  by  insects  and 
diseases  is  past.  This  will  protect  the  plants  from  damage 
by  the  striped  beetle,  flee  beetles,  aphis  and  mildew.  When 
squash  bugs  are  present,  trap  the  bugs,  or  kill  the  young  with 
an  application  of  kerosene  emulsion.  This  application  must  be 
made  separately  as  it  cannot  be  mixed  with  bordeaux, 

Cabbage  and  Cauliflower 

1st  Spray — When  the  plants  have  established  themselves 
after  transplanting,  make  an  application  of  bordeaux  mixture 
and  arsenate  of  lead,  repeating  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten 
days  until  the  plants  are  beginning  to  head.  In  the  case  of 
cauliflower,  spraying  should  not  be  done  after  the  "flower"  has 
begun  to  form.  Cabbage,  however,  may  be  sprayed  until  the 
head  is  almost  large  enough  to  cut.  Because  of  the  peculiar 
non-wettable  surface  of  cabbage  leaves,  it  is  necessary  to  use 
resin  sticker  in  the  spray  in  order  to  make  it  stick. 

In  addition  to  the  green  worms,  cabbage  and  cauliflower 
are  susceptible  to  diseases  and  some  very  troublesome  insects. 
One  of  the  most  troublesome  of  these  is  the  cabbage  aphis. 
When  this  pest  is  present,  nicotine  sulphate  should  be  added 
to  the  spray,  and  applied  thoroughly  and  with  high  pressure. 
Aphis  are  becoming  a  formidable  foe  to  cabbage  throughout 
much  of  the  country. 

Celery 

Celery  should  be  sprayed  at  frequent  intervals  from  the 
time  it  is  transplanted  to  the  field  up  to  nearly  the  time  it  is 
ready  for  use,  with  bordeaux  mixture  only.  When  the  plants 
are  young,  if  leaf  eating  insects  appear,  arsenate  of  lead  should 
be  used  with  the  bordeaux,  but  the  poison  should  be  omitted 
from  later  applications  on  account  of  the  danger  of  poisoning. 

Tomatoes 

This  crop  is  subject  to  almost  the  same  insects  and  diseases 
as  the  potato,  and  should  be  sprayed  in  the  same  way. 

Wh  itewash  ing 

Whitewash  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and  most  service- 
able of  paints  that  do  not  contain  oil,  and  since  white- 


[  96  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

wash  is  so  easily  and  evenly  applied  with  a  sprayer  it 
is  surprising  that  more  of  it  is  not  used.  Nothing  makes 
buildings,  fences,  cellars  have  a  more  attractive  appear- 
ance than  a  nice  coat  of  whitewash.  What  could  look 
prettier  than  a  group  of  snow-white  buildings  among 
green  trees?  Indeed,  every  owner  of  a  spraying  machine 
should  make  use  of  his  sprayer  in  applying  an  occasional 
coat  of  whitewash  to  his  fences  and  outbuildings,  and 
whiten  up  the  dark  interiors  of  his  barns.  There  are 
many  different  ways  of  making  up  whitewash,  and  since 
colorings  of  different  kinds  can  be  mixed  with  white- 
wash, it  is  easily  possible  to  break  the  glaring  white  with 
almost  any  tint  desired.  In  applying  whitewash  with  a 
sprayer^  it  makes  a  smoother  looking  job  to  go  over  the 
surface  in  one  direction  only,  and  when  that  coat  has 
dried,  to  go  over  it  again  at  right  angles  to  the  first  coat. 
The  following  are  a  few  of  the  standard  recipes  for  mak- 
ing whitewash. 

Ordinary  Whitewash 

This  is  made  by  slaking  about  ten  pounds  of  quick  lime  with 
two  gallons  of  water.  The  lime  is  placed  in  a  pail  and  the 
water  poured  over  it,  after  which  the  pail  is  covered  with  an 
old  piece  of  carpet  or  cloth  and  allowed  to  stand  for  about 
an  hour.  With  an  insufficient  amount  of  water  the  lime  is 
"scorched"  and  not  all  converted  into  hydrate;  on  the  other 
hand,  too  much  water  retards  the  slaking  by  lowering  the  heat. 

"Scorched"  lime  is  generally  lumpy  and  translucent,  hence 
the  use  of  the  proper  amount  of  water  for  slaking  and  an  after 
addition  of  water  to  bring  it  to  a  brush  or  sprayer  consistency. 

For  use  in  a  sprayer  all  whitewash  should  be  strained 
through  a  piece  of  cheese  cloth. 

Whitewash  for  Walls  and  Ceilings 

(1)  Sixty-two   pounds   (1   bushel)    quicklime,  slake  with   15 
gallons  water.     Keep  barrel  covered  until  steam  ceases  to  rise. 
Stir  occasionally  to  prevent  scorching. 

(2)  Two  and  one-half  pounds  rye  flour,  beat  up  in  a  half 
gallon  of  cold  water,  then  add  two  gallons  of  boiling  water. 

(3)  Two  and  one-half  pounds  common  rock  salt,  dissolve  in 
two  and  one-half  gallons  of  hot  water. 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [  97  ] 

Mix  (2)  and  (3),  then  pour  into  (1)  and  stir  until  all  is  well 
mixed. 

This  is  the  whitewash  used  in  the  large  implement  factories 
and  recommended  by  the  insurance  companies.  The  above 
formula  gives  a  product  of  perfect  brush  consistency.  Add 
more  water  for  use  in  a  sprayer. 

Whitewash  for  Buildings,  Fences,  etc. 

(1)  Sixty-two  pounds   (1   bushel)   quicklime,  slake   with   12 
gallons  of  hot  water. 

(2)  Two  pounds  common  table  salt,  one  pound  sulphate  of 
zinc,  dissolve  in  two  gallons  of  boiling  water. 

(3)  Two  gallons  skimmed  milk. 

Pour  (2)  into  (1),  then  add  the  milk  (3)  and  mix  thor- 
oughly. If  too  thick  to  apply  with  the  sprayer,  add  more  water. 

Lighthouse  Whitewash 

(1)  Sixty- two   pounds   (1   bushel)   quicklime,  slake  with   12 
gallons  of  hot  water. 

(2)  Twelve    pounds    rock   salt,    dissolve    in    six    gallons    of 
boiling  water. 

(3)  Six  pounds  Portland  cement. 
Pour  (2)  into  (1)  and  then  add  (3). 

Good  Outdoor  Whitewash 

A  standard  recipe  for  whitewash,  issued  by  the  Light- 
house Board  of  the  Treasury  Department,  said  to  be  very 
good  for  outdoor  exposure  is  as  follows : 

Slake  half  a  bushel  of  quicklime  with  boiling  water,  keeping 
it  covered  during  the  process.  Strain  it  and  add  a  peck  of  salt, 
dissolve  in  warm  water;  three  pounds  of  ground  rice,  put  in 
boiling  water  and  boiled  to  a  thin  paste;  half  a  pound  of  pow- 
dered Spanish  whiting  and  a  pound  of  clear  glue,  dissolved  in 
warm  water;  mix  these  well  together  and  let  the  mixture  stand 
for  several  days.  Keep  the  wash  thus  prepared  in  a  kettle  or 
portable  furnace;  and  when  used  put  it  on  as  hot  as  possible. 

Disinfectant  Whitewash 

The  following  recipe  for  a  disinfectant  whitewash  is 
recommended  by  the  Iowa  Experiment  Station  as  being 
especially  suitable  for  the  interior  of  poultry  houses, 


[  98  ]  Diseases  and  Their  Control 

barns,  etc.,  and  one  application  will  serve  the  same  pur- 
pose as  several  applications  of  stock  dip.  There  should 
be  two  applications  made  each  year,  one  in  spring  and 
one  in  fall,  using  a  high  pressure  spray  pump : 

(1)  Hydrated  lime,  \y2  pecks. 

(2)  Salt,  2  pounds. 

(3)  Commercial  lime-sulphur,  4  gallons. 

(4)  Water,  40  gallons. 

Equivalent  amounts  for  a  small  quantity  of  the  above 
whitewash  are  approximately  as  follows : 

(1)  Hydrated  lime,  1  heaping  quart. 

(2)  Salt,  3  tablespoonfuls. 

(3)  Commercial  lime-sulphur,  I1/*  quarts. 

(4)  Water,  4  gallons. 

Remember 

The  washes  which  contain  milk,  flour,  or  glue  are  not 
to  be  advised  for  use  in  damp  interiors,  owing  to  danger 
of  decomposition  of  the  organic  matter.  For  such  loca- 
tions it  is  better  to  use  one  of  the  formulae  containing 
none  of  these  ingredients.  When  whitewash  is  applied 
with  a  broad  whitewash  brush,  it  should  be  spread  lightly 
over  the  surface,  no  attempt  being  made  to  brush  it  in 
as  is  the  case  with  an  oil  paint. 

Alum  added  to  a  lime  whitewash  prevents  it  rubbing 
off.  An  ounce  to  the  gallon  is  sufficient. 

Flour  paste  answers  the  same  purpose,  but  needs  zinc 
sulphate  as  a  preservative. 

Molasses  renders  the  lime  more  soluble  and  causes  it 
to  penetrate  the  wood  or  plaster  surface;  a  pint  of  mo- 
lasses to  five  gallons  of  whitewash  is  sufficient. 

Silicate  of  soda  solution  (about  35  Beaume)  in  the 
proportion  of  one  to  ten  of  whitewash  produces  a  fire- 
proof cement 

A  pound  of  cheap  bar  soap  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of 
boiling  water  and  added  to  about  five  gallons  of  thick 
whitewash  will  give  it  a  gloss  like  oil  paint. 


Diseases  and  Their  Control  [99] 

In  mixing  cold  water  paint,  to  the  dry  powder  add  a 
small  amount  of  water  slowly,  mix  and  work  the  mass 
into  the  form  of  a  thick  paste  when  it  should  be  allowed 
to  stand  for  a  few  minutes  to  become  uniformly  wet. 
Then  add  sufficient  water  to  make  a  mixture  that  will 
flow  well  through  the  sprayer.  Allow  the  first  coat  to 
dry,  before  making  the  second  coat,  which  should  be 
applied  at  right  angles  to  the  first. 


[  100  ]  Spraying  About  the  Farm 

CHAPTER  VI 
Spraying  About  the  Farm 

HERE  are  many  uses  for  sprayers  on  the  farm 
aside  from  that  of  spraying  fruit  trees,  potato 
fields  and  gardens,  or  for  whitewashing  purposes. 
There  is  the  matter  of  disinfecting.  Live  stock  quarters 
need  to  be  disinfected  at  intervals,  and  no  means  of  apply- 
ing disinfectants  is  better  or  more  economical  than  with 
the  sprayer.  Hog  houses  can  be  made  more  sanitary 
and  losses  from  cholera  materially  reduced  by  frequently 
spraying  the  interiors  of  the  hog  houses  with  disinfectant 
washes  or  even  with  whitewash.  The  dipping  of  grain 
for  smut  control  can  be  made  easier  and  more  economical 
by  spraying  the  solution  on  the  grain.  Lice  and  mites 
on  poultry  can  be  kept  in  control  by  an  occasional  spray- 
ing of  the  poultry  house  interior.  Wild  mustard  in  grain 
fields  can  be  eliminated  by  proper  spraying.  Live  stock 
may  be  protected  from  annoyance  by  flies  through  spray- 
ing with  fly  repellant.  In  many  cases,  the  spraying  mach- 
ine has  served  a  very  useful  purpose  in  putting  out  fires 
that  threatened  to  consume  the  dwelling  or  barn,  and  as 
a  means  of  washing  the  automobile,  where  water  under 
pressure  is  not  easily  obtainable,  the  sprayer  is  unequaled. 
Window  washing  is  made  much  easier  when  a  nice  spray 
of  water  can  be  directed  over  the  glass,  and  the  sprayer 
used  in  this  manner  is  indeed  a  labor  saver.  Lice  on 
hogs,  and  ticks  on  cattle  can  be  controlled  readily  by 
spraying,  thus  rendering  the  dipping  vat  unnecessary. 

Disinfecting  Live  Stock  Quarters 

Many  of  the  diseases  of  farm  animals,  such  as  dis- 
temper, glanders,  cholera,  tuberculosis,  etc.,  are  spread 
from  animal  to  animal  by  infected  mangers,  feed  troughs, 
floors,  etc.  To  disinfect  and  clean  up  such  places,  make 
an  application  three  times  each  year  of  formalin  used 
at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to  twenty  gallons  of  water.  If 


Shade  Tree  Spraying  with  a  Hayes  Triplex 


[  Page   101  ] 


Spraying' F lowers  with  a  Boss  Compressed  Air 


Spraying  with  a  Hayes  Bucket  Sprayer 


[  Page  102  ] 


t& 


Garden  Spraying  with  a  Boss  Compressed  Air 


Hayes   Wheelbarrow  Sprayer  Used  in  a  Garden 


[  Page  103  ] 


Spraying  Hogs  with  a  Hayes  Wheelbarrow  Sprayer 


A  Handy  Outfit  for  Disinfecting  and  Whitewashing 


[  Page  104  ] 


Spraying  About  the  Farm  [  105  ] 

a  little  lime  is  mixed  with  the  solution,  it  will  help  to 
show  the  surface  that  has  been  covered. 

A  better  plan  is  to  rake  up  and  burn  all  rubbish  about 
the  building  and  yard  occupied  by  diseased  animals,  then 
spray  thoroughly,  so  as  to  wet  or  drench  with  the  dis- 
infectant, all  of  the  interior  of  the  buildings,  partition 
fences  with  a  three  per  cent  solution  of  compound  cresol, 
U.  S.  P.,  to  which  enough  lime  has  been  added  to  show 
the  surface  covered  or  with  some  good  brand  of  disin- 
fectant made  for  the  purpose.  All  feeding  floors  and 
ground  surfaces  of  infected  pens  should  be  thoroughly 
sprayed  with  the  disinfectant.  In  the  case  of  hog  cholera, 
do  away  with  the  wallows,  unless  they  are  disinfected 
frequently  and  regularly  with  either  of  the  above.  Use 
air  slaked  lime  freely  about  the  feed  yards  and  floors  of 
hog  houses  where  cholera  has  existed. 

Disinfecting  Grain  Seed 

Spray,  instead  of  sprinkle  or  dipping,  the  grain  seed 
in  a  solution  of  formalin  for  protection  against  smut. 
Shovel  the  grain  over  several  times,  while  the  spray  is 
being  applied,  so  as  to  insure  an  even  distribution.  It 
takes  about  a  gallon  of  solution  for  a  bushel  of  wheat, 
and  from  one  and  one-half  to  two  gallons  for  a  bushel 
of  oats,  barley  or  millet.  Clean  flax  seed  thoroughly 
before  disinfecting,  so  as  to  rid  the  seed  of  chaff  and 
shriveled  seeds.  Then  spray,  while  shoveling  over  the 
seeds.  After  treating  grain  seed,  cover  with  sacks  for  a 
few  hours  or  over  night.  The  excess  of  the  solution  will 
be  absorbed  and  the  gas  acts  more  effectively  on  the 
smut  spores  that  are  on  the  outside  of  the  grain.  The 
grain  will  swell  some,  and  by  measuring  before  and  after 
treating  one  can  decide  how  to  set  the  drill  so  as  to  sow 
the  proper  amount. 

Poultry  Mites  and  Lice 

These  creatures  that  make  life  miserable  for  poultry 
can  be  kept  in  good  control  by  occasionally  spraying  the 
interior  of  the  poultry  house  with  a  disinfectant.  No 


[  106  ]  Spraying  About  the  Farm 

farm  on  which  poultry  are  raised,  should  be  without  a 
sprayer,  if  for  no  other  purpose  than  that  of  spraying 
the  poultry  house.  Before  spraying,  clean  out  all  manure, 
straw  or  litter,  and  clean  out  all  nest  boxes.  Make  a 
liberal  application  of  concentrated  lime-sulphur  solution, 
just  as  for  dormant  spraying  apple  trees,  or  with  kero- 
sene emulsion,  or  with  a  three  per  cent  solution  of  com- 
pound cresol  or  good  brand  of  commercial  louse  killer. 
Apply  the  spray  with  force,  and  wet  all  cracks,  roosts, 
nest  boxes  and  the  dropping  boards.  Whitewash  the 
interior  at  least  once  each  summer. 

Kill  Weeds  by  Spraying 

Certain  kinds  of  weeds,  such  as  wild  mustard,  red 
sorrel,  chickweed,  cockle  bur,  rag  weed,  dandelion,  daisies, 
wild  lettuce,  etc.,  may  be  more  or  less  completely  killed 
by  spraying  the  plants  before  they  reach  the  blooming 
stage,  with  solutions  of  iron  sulphate  or  sodium  arsenate. 
The  latter  chemical  is  a  strong  poison  and  every  care 
must  be  taken  to  keep  any  of  it  from  getting  in  the  mouth. 

The  best  results  in  spraying  for  weed  control  have 
come  from  the  treatment  of  grain  fields  infested  with 
wild  mustard,  or  timothy  meadows  containing  red  sorrel. 
Spraying  such  fields  with  iron  sulphate  is  entirely  prac- 
tical and  does  not  permanently  injure  the  crop,  although 
it  may  cause  the  leaves  of  grain,  timothy  or  clover  to 
be  blackened  for  a  few  days.  Make  the  application  on  a 
calm,  warm  day  when  there  is  no  immediate  indications 
of  rain  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  so  that  the  chemi- 
cal will  have  time  to  act.  Where  iron  sulphate  is  used, 
prepare  it  at  the  rate  of  two  pounds  to  one  gallon  of 
water. 

Protect  Stock  from  Flies,   Ticks,  Lice,  etc. 

Spraying  may  take  the  place  of  dipping  in  protecting 
cattle  from  some  of  the  parasites  which  frequently  infest 
them,  and  affords  a  convenient  and  effective  method  of 
controlling  the  annoyance  of  horn  flies.  This  pest  may 


Spraying  About  the  Farm  [  107  ] 

be  controlled  by  applying  a  spray  of  kerosene  emulsion 
to  the  animals  in  the  evening  as  they  are  being  yarded 
for  the  night.  The  most  satisfactory  means  of  making 
the  application  is  to  drive  the  animals  through  a  chute 
of  proper  size,  on  each  side  of  which  is  a  nozzle  leading 
to  the  sprayer  and  through  which  a  generous  mist  of  the 
spray  mixture  is  playing  as  the  cattle  pass  through.  In 
the  case  of  fine  stock  in  stables,  such  sprayers  as  the 
HAYES  PERFECTION  OR  BOSS  OUTFITS  make 
convenient  means  of  applying  the  insecticide,  as  the  spray 
can  be  taken  direct  to  the  places  where  it  is  to  be  applied. 
Ticks  which  infest  southern  cattle  may  be  destroyed 
quite  as  effectually  by  spraying  the  cattle  with  the  insec- 
ticides as  by  dipping.  The  solution  for  this  purpose  that 
is  recommended  by  the  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry  is 
as  follows: 

Sal  soda 6      pounds 

White  arsenic 2      pounds 

Pine   tar 1      quart 

Water,  sufficient  to  make 12%  gallons 

In  making  up  this  material,  mix  the  sal  soda  and 
arsenic  in  a  kettle  containing  six  gallons  of  water.  Set 
it  over  a  fire  and  let  it  boil  for  thirty  minutes.  Remove 
it  and  let  it  cool  to  about  140  degrees,  then  slowly  add 
the  pine  tar,  stirring  vigorously.  Pour  in  sufficient  water 
to  bring  up  to  the  required  volume — 12^  gallons.  For 
use  this  should  be  diluted  at  the  rate  of  one  gallon  to 
nine  gallons  of  water. 

This  solution  is  poisonous  and  should  be  used  with 
care.  Apply  it  to  the  cattle  once  every  two  weeks  until 
the  ticks  are  eradicated,  making  the  applications  where 
the  drip  will  not  lodge  on  grass  or  feed  of  any  kind. 

Commercial  brands  of  fly  repellant  may  be  obtained 
at  many  stores  and  are  more  convenient  than  mixing  your 
own. 

Spray  the  Hogs 

A  cool  bath  for  the  hog  is  soothing  in  hot  summer 
weather,  and  to  obtain  his  bath  the  hog  wallows  in  the 


[  108  ]  Spraying  About  the  Farm 

first  convenient  mud  hole.  Filthy  hog  wallows  are  a 
source  of  danger,  while  a  sanitary  wallow  made  of  con- 
crete and  frequently  cleaned  has  many  advantages.  Such 
wallows  when  filled  with  clean  water  over  which  a  film 
of  crude  oil  is  spread  once  a  week,  cleans  the  scruff  from 
the  skin  of  the  hogs  and  tends  to  keep  them  free  from 
lice  and  other  skin  parasites.  But  where  a  concrete  wal- 
low or  dipping  vat  is  not  practical,  the  dip,  properly 
diluted  may  be  applied  to  the  hogs  with  a  spray  pump. 
Hogs  like  to  be  sprayed,  and  this  means  of  applying 
insecticides  to  swine,  sheep  or  other  animals  for  the  con- 
trol of  lice,  mites  and  ticks,  is  gaining  in  popularity  be- 
cause of  its  thoroughness  and  economy.  Spraying  takes 
less  materials,  less  time  to  apply  and  causes  less  injury 
to  the  animals  than  dipping,  and  in  addition  has  other 
reasons  to  recommend  its  use. 

The  Right  Sprayer  for  the  Purpose 

Necessity  has  produced  many  styles  and  sizes  of 
sprayers  and  there  is  a  sprayer  for  every  spraying  need. 
There  are  big,  power-operated  outfits  for  the  spraying 
of  commercial  orchards,  parks  and  shade  trees;  barrel 
pumps  for  the  small  orchard  and  atomizers  for  the  appli- 
cation of  a  pint  or  so  of  spray  liquid.  The  small  hand 
atomizer,  such  as  HAYES  MATCHLESS  or  GLASS 
JAR,  are  familiar  to  all,  and  are  handy  for  the  small  gar- 
den, house  plants,  the  disinfecting  of  sick  rooms  and 
many  other  purposes  where  but  a  small  quantity  of  spray 
is  required. 

HAYES  BOSS  COMPRESSED  AIR  SPRAYERS 

are  typical  of  those  convenient  little  outfits  that  admir- 
ably serve  the  need  of  the  backyard  gardener,  the  poul- 
tryman,  florist  and  the  farmer.  The  tank  holds  three  gal- 
lons, or  sufficient  for  one  application  to  a  fair  size  garden. 
It  is  emptied  by  three  or  four  pumpings  of  a  dozen  strokes 
each,  and  the  sprayer  is  convenient  to  carry  by  means  of 
the  shoulder  strap.  This  outfit  should  be  part  of  the 
equipment  of  every  backyard  gardener  and  florist.  No 


Spraying  About  the  Farm  [  109  ] 

sprayer  is  more  convenient  for  whitewashing  greenhouse 
glass  in  summer. 

HAYES  BUCKET  SPRAYERS  are  of  sufficient 
variety  to  meet  the  needs  for  small  sprayers  that  will 
develop  high  pressure.  With  these  little  sprayers  sur- 
prisingly high  pressure  may  be  obtained  with  the  conse- 
quent finely  atomized  spray,  and  they  are  convenient  to 
carry  from  place  to  place.  There  is  a  multitude  of  uses 
for  Hayes*  Bucket  Sprayers,  and  a  place  for  one  of  them 
in  every  home,  no  matter  what  other  style  of  sprayer  also 
may  be  on  hand.  They  are  particularly  useful  in  spraying 
fruit  trees,  where  the  owner  has  from  one  to  a  dozen 
trees  to  spray;  for  the  farmer  in  disinfecting  barns,  for 
the  poultryman,  nurseryman,  dairyman,  contractors, 
school  boards,  factory  superintendents,  boards  of  health, 
etc. 

HAYES  WHEELBARROW  SPRAYERS  are  ideal 
outfits  for  the  farmer,  dairyman,  poultryman  or  fruit 
grower.  They  are  convenient  to  take  from  place  to  place, 
have  large  capacity  and  produce  high  pressure  as  the 
pump  is  the  same  size  as  regularly  used  in  barrel  spray- 
ers. For  spraying  cattle  for  ticks,  hogs  for  lice,  for  white- 
washing, etc.,  they  are  ideal. 

HAYES  BARREL  SPRAYERS  are  designed  to  fit 
the  needs  of  the  small  orchardist  and  the  commercial 
gardener  who  has  a  small  acreage.  These  barrel  spray- 
ers develop  still  higher  pressure  than  the  bucket  sprayers, 
and  have  sufficient  strength  and  capacity  to  thoroughly 
spray  orchards.  They  are  well  suited  to  spraying  potato 
patches  of  an  acre  in  size,  but  in  the  orchard  they  should 
be  used  only  where  the  acreage  is  small,  that  is,  three  or 
four  acres.  On  orchards  of  larger  size,  up  to  eight  or  ten 
acres,  it  is  more  economical  to  make  use  of  such  an  outfit 
as  HAYES  PLATFORM  DUPLEX  HAND  SPRAYER, 
as  such  an  outfit  not  only  produces  higher  pressure  but 
has  greater  capacity,  delivering  from  two  to  five  gallons 
of  spray  per  minute,  with  the  consequence  of  saving  much 
valuable  time  in  doing  the  work. 


[110]  Spraying  About  the  Farm 

For  orchards  of  more  than  5  acres,  for  citrus  groves, 
park  and  shade  tree  spraying,  the  greatest  economy  comes 
from  the  use  of  power  driven  outfits,  such  as  HAYES 
FRUIT-FOG  SPRAYERS  No.  1905  on  up  to  No.  3121. 
These  sprayers  are  driven  by  gasoline  engines  of  1J4 
to  3  horsepower.  They  have  from  2  to  3  cylinders  in  the 
pumps  and  will  deliver  from  5  to  9  gallons  of  spray  per 
minute  under  a  pressure  of  300  pounds  per  square  inch. 
This  is  the  genuine  Fruit- Fog,  a  spray  that  will  penetrate 
cracks  and  crevices  and  wet  upper  and  lower  surfaces  of 
foliage  in  ways  impossible  for  low  pressure  outfits.  These 
power  driven  outfits  give  a  steadier  spray  than  is  possi- 
ble to  obtain  from  hand-driven  pumps,  and  no  commer- 
cial fruit  grower  should  attempt  to  spray  with  anything 
else. 

If  your  spraying  problem  is  such  that  you  are  uncertain  as 
to  what  particular  outfit  will  best  suit  your  needs,  write  to  the 
Horticultural  Service  Department,  Hayes  Pump  &  Planter  Co., 
Galva,  111.  Tell  just  what  you  want  to  spray,  how  much  of  it 
you  have  to  do,  and  your  inquiry  will  be  cheerfully  answered  by 
experts  who  have  a  life-time  experience  with  every  spraying 
operation. 


How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees  [  111  ] 

CHAPTER  VII 
How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees 

HE  spraying  of  citrus  -trees  is  coming  more  and 
more  into  vogue  as  growers  are  finding  out  the 
values  that  accrue  from  this  operation.  Especially 
is  this  true  in  Florida,  where  citrus  growers  have  had  a 
strong  inclination  to  rely  upon  the  services  of  certain 
so-called  "beneficial"  fungi  and  insects  which  have  preyed 
to  a  considerable  extent  upon  the  pests  of  their  groves. 

But  it  has  been  proved  beyond  question,  even  to  the 
most  enthusiastic  supporters  of  the  "natural  enemies"  of 
citrus  pests  that  spraying  is  not  only  profitable  but  a 
real  necessity.  And,  as  in  the  case  of  all  other  crops, 
there  are  certain  very  important  claims  made  for  spray- 
ing, all  of  which  have  a  direct  result  in  enabling  the  grove 
owner  to  make  more  money  from  his  fruit.  Some  of 
these  claims  are  that: 

1.  Spraying  increases  the  size  of  citrus  fruits. 

2.  Spraying  improves  the  grades  of  fruits. 

3.  Spraying  maintains  the  vigor  of  the  trees. 

4.  Spraying  enhances  the  appearance  of  the  fruit. 

5.  Spraying  enables  the  trees  to  increase  the  yield 
from  year  to  year. 

6.  Spraying  insures  the  grove  against  crop  damage 
from  fungi  and  insects. 

7.  Spraying  improves  the  keeping  quality  of  the  fruit. 

Prof.  W.  W.  Yothers,  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  in  department  bulletin  645  has  shown  how 
spraying  increases  size  and  improves  the  grades  of 
oranges  and  grape  fruits  through  controlling  the  insect 
pests.  "In  one  instance  a  row  of  16  trees  was  left  un- 
sprayed  for  three  seasons,  1913,  1914  and  1915.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  grove  was  sprayed.  The  citrus  white  fly 
was  making  its  first  appearance  in  the  grove.  During 


[112]  How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees 

the  year  1913,  there  was  little  or  no  difference  in  the 
yields  of  the  sprayed  trees  and  the  unsprayed  check  trees. 
In  1914  the  sprayed  rows  averaged  50  boxes  of  fruit,  and 
the  adjoining  row  of  16  unsprayed  trees  had  about  5 
boxes.  All  common  species  of  fungi  parasites  on  the 
white  fly  and  scale  insects  were  present  in  great  abun- 
dance. In  1915  the  difference  was  not  so  great;  the  un- 
sprayed row  had  about  20  boxes  of  fruit  and  the  adjoining 
rows  about  50  boxes  each." 

"As  another  instance,  in  a  grape  fruit  grove  at  Safety 
Harbor,  84  trees  left  without  treatment  during  the  sum- 
mer of  1914  averaged  two-thirds  of  a  box  per  tree  less 
than  the  trees  adjoining  which  were  sprayed.  The  re- 
duction in  yield  due  to  failure  to  spray  was  caused  by 
the  smaller  size  of  the  fruit  resulting  from  rust  mite 
attack.  There  seems  to  be  no  evidence  that  the  actual 
number  of  grape  fruit  on  the  unsprayed  trees  was  less 
than  on  the  sprayed  trees." 

"During  the  year  1915  the  same  trees  received  the 
same  treatment  as  during  1914.  The  sprayed  trees  had 
at  least  a  good  half  crop,  or  about  four  boxes  per  tree. 
This  difference  was  so  marked  that  all  the  laborers  in  the 
grove  noticed  it  as  early  as  August  1." 

Spraying  Helps  Grades 

Many  such  instances  should  be  recorded  for  results 
obtained  from  spraying  in  citrus  groves,  and  such  dif- 
ferences have  a  very  decided  effect  on  the  bankable  profits 
the  grove  owner  has  at  the  end  of  the  season.  But  the 
actual  increase  in  quantity  or  bulk  of  the  fruit  harvested 
is  only  one  of  the  virtues  derived  from  spraying.  The 
grade  of  the  fruit  also  is  improved.  While  the  grading 
of  citrus  fruit  in  Forida  has  not  reached  quite  the  degree 
of  perfection  that  exists  in  California,  there  is  an  increas- 
ing tendency  for  citrus  fruit  packers  in  Florida  to  give 
more  and  more  attention  to  the  matter  of  grades.  Here 
is  where  the  effect  of  spraying  also  shows  up,  since 


Hayes  High  Pressure  Triplex  Power  Sprayer 

Monarch  of  High  Pressure  Sprayers — the  most  highly  perfected  spraying 
apparatus  in  the  world.  Designed  for  large  commercial  orchards,  citrus 
groves  and  shade  tree  work,  where  many  trees  are  cared  for.  It  represents 
the  most  advanced  step  in  the  control  of  diseases  and  pests  which  rob  orchards 
of  millions. 


Hayes  High  Pressure  Triplex  Power  Sprayer 

To  orchardists  the  name  Hayes  on  spraying  apparatus  guarantees  not 
only  the  most  advanced  methods  for  thoroughly  controlling  all  crop  destroy- 
ing pests,  but  the  satisfaction  and  economy  that  come  from  using  the  best 
possible  quality  in  machinery.  Every  outfit  represents  all  that  Hayes  experi- 
ence, resources  and  an  efficient  manufacturing  organization  can  offer.  This 
means  that  when  you  buy  a  Hayes  sprayer  you  get  all  that  money  can  buy, 
dollar  for  dollar  value. 


[Page  113] 


Hayes  High  Pressure  Walking  Beam  Power  Sprayer 

This  small  power  sprayer  will  exactly  suit  the  requirements  of  the  grower 
with  medium  or  small  acreage.  This  outfit  represents  every  improvement  that 
is  best  and  practical  in  sprayer  construction.  Any  grower  with  200  or  more 
trees  cannot  afford  to  be  without  this  sprayer — increased  profits  from  high 
pressure,  time,  work,  and  solution  saved  will  justify  its  purchase. 


Hayes  High  Pressure  Walking  Beam  Power  Sprayer 

The  famous  Type  "Z"  1^  H.  P.  Fairbanks-Morse  Engine  with  which 
these  smaller  outfits  are  equipped  furnishes  constant  and  reliable  power  far 
in  excess  of  its  name  plate  rating.  The  built-in  magneto  eliminates  the  bat- 
teries and  permits  quick  and  easy  starting.  For  economy,  simplicity,  light 
weight,  strength  and  ability  to  do  the  work  continuously  under  all  weather  con- 
ditions, this  engine  cannot  be  duplicated  for  small  power  spraying  service. 


[Page  114] 


Hayes  Triplex  Power  Spray  Pump 


Hayes  Walking  Beam  Power_Spray  Pump 


[Page  115] 


Hayes  Barrel  Sprayers 

Hayes  Barrel  Sprayers  are  made  in  26  styles  and  sizes.  They  are  of  sim- 
ple and  scientific  design,  built  for  maximum  pressure  and  capacity  with  mini- 
mum power  to  operate. 


Hayes  Duplex  Hand  Sprayer 


Hayes  Duplex  Sprayer  is  the 
most  powerful  hand  sprayer 
made.  Capable  of  developing 
300  Ibs.  pressure.  Double  cyl- 
inder. Powerful  leverage.  Brass 


cylinders,  bronze  plung- 
ers and  large  bronze  ball 
valves.  Can  be  operated 
from  wagon  or  drawn 
through  orchard. 


[  Page  116] 


Hayes  Spraying  Booms 

Hayes  Spraying  Booms  may  be  used  with  barrel  or  power  sprayers  for 
spraying  potatoes,  tomatoes,  small  nursery  stock,  strawberries,  grain,  cotton 
and  tobacco  fields  and  other  row  crops. 


Hayes   Wheelbarrow  Sprayer 

Hayes  Wheelbarrow  Sprayer  is  a  handy,  portable,  all-purpose  outfit. 
Twelve  important  every-day  uses.  Spray  trees,  bushes,  vines,  potatoes,  garden 
crops !  Whitewash  trees,  barns,  pens,  coops,  fences,  cellars !  Spray  hogs ! 
Spray  all  your  stock!  Disinfect  stables,  sheds,  yards  and  poultry  houses! 
Deodorize!  Goes  anywhere  like  a  wheelbarrow. 

[Page  117  ] 


Fig.  23 


Fig.  25 


Hayes  Bucket  Sprayers 

Hayes  Bucket  Sprayers  are  a  most  important  tool  for  farm,  home  and 
garden  use.  Indispensable  for  spraying  trees,  small  fruits,  garden  truck, 
flowers,  etc. ;  washing  windows,  porches  and  autos ;  disinfecting  the  farm  yard, 

barns     and     poultry    houses;     spraying 
•1  cattle  fly  oil  and  stock  dip   and  white- 

washing    buildings     and     fences.       All 
working    parts    are    brass,    not    subject 
™r—  to  corrosion.     Solid  bronze  ball  valves. 

Malleable  foot  rest.  Will  develop  high 
pressure,  are  easy-working,  long  last- 
ing and  exempt  from  breakage  and  de- 
lays. 


Hayes  Bucket  Clamp 

[  Page  118] 


"Boss"   Compressed  Air 

The  Boss  Compressed  Air  is  simple,  strong  and  substantial.  Two  or 
three  pumpings  will  discharge  the  contents  of  the  tank  at  strong  and  constant 
pressure.  After  pumping  the  operator  has  only  to  direct  the  spray.  Auto- 
matic, self-cleaning  nozzle  with  lever  for  controlling  and  shutting  of  spray. 
Galvanized  or  brass  tank,  4  gallons  capacity. 


No.  34 

Hayes    Atomizers    are    made    in    five   styles    for    spraying    and    disinfecting. 
Tin,  galvanized  or  glass  jar.     Pint  and  quart  sizes. 

[  Page   119  ] 


Hayes  Fruit-Fog  Nozzles 

The  remarkable  fineness  of  FRUIT-FOG  is  due  to  the  high  pressure  of 
Hayes  Sprayers  and  the  principles  involved  in  the  design  and  construction  of 
Hayes  Nozzles.  Efficient  spraying  is  impossible  without  good  nozzles,  no 
matter  what  the  pressure  used.  Hayes  Nozzles  apply  the  spray  in  the  finest 
possible  condition  and  can  be  used  with  any  sprayer. 


Hayes  Fruit-Fog  Gun 

World's  fastest  spraying  apparatus.  The  only  gun  which  combines  great 
speed  with  the  thoroughness  of  Fruit-Fog.  One  man  handles  capacity  of  big 
power  sprayer.  Does  four  days'  work  in  one.  Simple  twist  shoots  long  spray 
to  top  of  tallest  tree  or  wide  spray  for  close-up  work.  Half  turn  of  handle 
opens  wide  or  shuts  off  tight.  Prevents  usual  waste  of  solution  between  trees. 
Mechanically  perfect  and  fully  guaranteed. 


[  Page  120  ] 


How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees  [  121  ] 

certain  insects  have  a  decided  effect  in  lowering  the 
grades  and  decreasing  the  size  of  the  individual  fruits. 

The  insect  chiefly  responsible  is  the  silver  or  rust 
mite.  Fruits  which  have  suffered  damage  from  this  pest 
are  not  only  russeted  and  their  appearance  soiled,  but 
they  are  actually  smaller  in  size.  A  striking  example  of 
this  effect  is  given  by  Professor  Yothers  for  a  grape  fruit 
grove.  In  this  grove  a  block  was  thoroughly  sprayed 
throughout  the  season,  in  a  second  block  no  spraying  was 
done  after  June,  while  a  third  portion  was  left  without 
spraying.  The  sprayed  and  unsprayed  portions  were 
in  adjoining  rows  and  the  fruit  was  picked  and  packed 
on  the  same  day.  "The  carload  of  sprayed  fruit  shipped 
87.4  per  cent  first  and  second,  and  12.6  per  cent  third  and 
fourth  grades;  the  unsprayed  carload  shipped  no  first, 
3.3  per  cent  second,  and  96.6  per  cent  third  and  fourth 
grades.  The  car  load  of  fruit  left  unsprayed  after  June 
shipped  80.3  per  cent  first  and  second  and  19.6  per  cent 
third  and  fourth  grades,  thus  indicating  that  if  rust  mites 
are  controlled  thoroughly  until  the  1st  of  July  on  grape 
fruit  little  damage  will  result."  In  other  words,  the 
sprayed  block  produced  more  fruit  not  only  because  it 
contained  more  fruit  graded  as  "bright,"  but  also  because 
the  individual  fruits  were  larger  and  fewer  were  needed 
to  fill  a  box.  Professor  Yothers  has  found  this  difference 
to  run  as  high  as  15  per  cent,  a  figure  which  represents  a 
very  substantial  profit,  as  profits  are  judged  in  a  mer- 
cantile business. 

Increases  Vigor  of  Trees 

There  is  no  doubt  whatever  that  spraying  increases 
the  vigor  of  citrus  trees,  and  even  a  casual  observer 
cannot  fail  to  observe  the  greater  luxuriance  of  the  foliage 
on  a  well  sprayed  grove  as  compared  to  a  grove  that  is 
not  sprayed.  Healthy,  vigorous,  abundant  foliage  is 
necessary  to  the  trees  for  building  up  its  framework  of 
twigs  and  branches  and  also  for  elaborating  the  sugars 
and  acids  which  go  to  make  up  the  fruit.  A  citrus  tree 


[  122  ]  How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees 

with  its  foliage  lessened  in  quantity  and  lowered  in  effi- 
ciency by  scale  and  white  fly  is  in  much  the  same  condi- 
tion as  a  man  suffering  from  a  bad  case  of  indigestion. 

The  looks  of  the  fruit  has  much  to  do  with  the  sale. 
Fruit  that  looks  good  sells  more  readily  than  fruit  that 
is  less  attractive.  The  elimination  of  russet,  scale  and 
scab  from  citrus  fruits  by  spraying  makes  them  bright 
and  attractive  in  appearance,  and  hastens  their  sale.  Fur- 
thermore, the  bright  fruit  is  less  liable  to  rot  than  fruit 
which  is  russetted.  Nature  has  provided  the  outer  rind 
of  the  orange,  lemon,  and  grape  fruit  with  a  waxy  cover- 
ing that  is  not  readily  penetrated  by  germs  that  cause  the 
fruit  to  rot.  But  when  this  outer  covering  is  broken,  as 
in  the  case  of  numerous  but  tiny  punctures  of  the  rust 
mite,  the  fruit  is  much  more  liable  to  decay.  In  many 
different  tests,  Professor  Yothers  found  this  difference  in 
keeping  quality  between  bright  and  russet  fruit  to  amount 
to  an  average  of  14  per  cent. 

Spray  Thoroughly 

Citrus  trees  as  a  rule  are  of  compact  habit.  The  foliage 
is  dense  and  to  a  large  extent  is  produced  throughout  the 
entire  tree,  rather  than  as  a  mere  shell  of  foliage  on  the 
tips  of  the  outermost  twigs.  Then  the  great  majority 
of  insect  pests  of  the  citrus  grove  occur  more  extensively 
on  the  lower  surface  of  the  leaves  than  on  the  upper  sides. 
Bearing  these  facts  in  mind,  it  is  apparent  that  only  by 
high  pressure  is  it  economical  to  do  a  thorough  job  of 
spraying  citrus.  High  pressures,  that  is,  pressures  above 
250  pounds,  produce  a  more  highly  atomized  spray  than 
when  lower  pressures  are  used,  and  this  in  turn  spreads 
better  and  wets  the  foliage  and  insects  better  than  do 
lower  pressures,  with  a  consequent  saving  in  material 
used  and  time  of  application. 

In  spraying  citrus,  it  should  be  remembered  that 
insects  should  be  sprayed  for  when  they  are  present  in 
auch  numbers  that  if  left  uncontrolled  they  will  cause 
injury  to  the  fruit  or  tree.  Furthermore,  the  spraying 


How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees  [  123  ] 

must  be  done  with  thoroughness  to  wet  the  upper  and 
lower  sides  of  every  leaf ;  this  is  for  the  reason  that  most 
of  the  insects  infesting  citrus  are  sucking  insects,  and 
therefore  are  killed  by  contact  spray  rather  than  by  a 
poison. 

Begin  spraying  in  the  center  of  the  tree,  pushing  the 
spray  rod  in  the  foliage  so  as  to  wet  the  bark  of  all  in- 
terior branches,  twigs  and  leaves.  Turn  the  angle  nozzle 
first  one  way  and  then  another  so  as  to  wet  all  sides. 
After  the  interior  portion  of  a  section  of  the  tree  has 
been  sprayed,  withdraw  the  spray  rod  and  repeat  the 
same  movements  on  the  outside  of  the  tree,  passing  on  to 
the  next  section  of  the  tree  where  the  same  routine  is 
repeated. 

When  to  Spray 

No  definite  rule  can  be  laid  down  for  spraying  citrus 
trees,  but  in  Florida,  where  spraying  is  more  largely 
done  for  citrus  insects  than  is  the  case  in  California, 
Professer  Yothers  proposes  the  following  schedule.  This 
schedule  has  been  closely  followed  for  a  number  of  years 
and  gives  entire  satisfaction: 

1.  Paraffin  oil  emulsions;  Government  formula,  one  per  cent 
of  oil.     May.     For  white  flies,  scales  and  rust  mite.     This  ap- 
plication should  be  made  after  the  adults  of  the  first  brood  of 
white  flies  have  disappeared  and  before  the  appearance  of  the 
second  brood.    It  should  be  made  before  the  beginning  of  the 
rainy  season. 

2.  Lime-sulphur  32  degrees  Beaume,  1-50  to  1-7S;  June  to 
July.     This  is  primarily  a  rust  mite  application,  and  should  be 
applied   before   the   mites   become   very   numerous   and   before 
russeting  appears. 

3.  Paraffin  oil  emulsions;  Government  formula,  one  per  cent 
of  oil.    August  25  to  October  31.    This  is  the  second  application 
for  white  fly  and  scale.    This  application  will  remove  the  sooty 
mould  from  the  leaves  and  fruit. 

4.  Lime-sulphur,  32  degrees  Beaume,  1-50  to  1-75.    Novem- 
ber and  December.    This  is  for  rust  mites,  and  may  be  omitted 
if  the  mites  are  not  excessively  abundant.     In  case  thrips  are 
present  in  the  blossoms,  add  nicotine  sulphate  at  the  rate  of  one 
part  to  1,200  parts  of  spray  solution. 


[  124  ]  How  to  Spray  Citrus  Trees 

This  cannot  be  considered  as  a  hard  and  fast  sched- 
ule that  must  be  followed  to  the  letter.  Conditions  will 
arise  when  it  may  be  necessary  to  use  other  spray  solu- 
tions, particularly  bordeaux  mixture.  But  under  aver- 
age conditions,  the  above  schedule  will  be  found  highly 
satisfactory  under  conditions  prevailing  in  Florida  and 
along  the  Gulf  Coast.  In  California,  however,  where 
fumigation  to  a  large  extent  takes  the  place  of  spraying 
in  citrus  trees,  and  where  citrus  pests  to  some  extent  are 
different  from  those  in  Florida,  the  schedule  will  be 
different. 

No  attempt  will  be  made  in  this  publication  to  give 
descriptions  of  insects  and  diseases  affecting  citrus  fruits. 
Readers  who  desire  more  detailed  information  of  that 
character  should  secure  the  excellent  bulletins  on  citrus 
insects  and  diseases  which  have  been  published  by  the 
U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  by  the  Florida  Experi- 
ment Station,  Gainesville,  Fla.,  and  the  California  Expe- 
riment Station,  Berkeley,  Cal. 


Shade  Tree  Spraying  [  125  ] 

CHAPTER  VII 
Shade  Tree  Spraying 


shade  trees  in  residence  streets,  in 
parks  and  cemeteries  and  even  in  forests  suffer 
from  attacks  of  insects  of  many  kinds,  which,  un- 
less controlled  by  artificial  means,  do  an  inestimable 
amount  of  damage.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars 
have  already  been  expended  in  the  New  England  states 
for  the  control  of  the  gipsy  moth  and  brown  tail  moth. 
The  white  pine  blister  rust,  which  came  to  this  country 
just  a  few  years  ago  has  already  created  havoc  among 
the  stately  white  pines  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  United 
States.  The  blight  of  the  chestnut  is  annually  taking  a 
heavy  toll  of  magnificent  chestnut  trees,  not  only  from 
city  streets,  but  even  from  forests.  Elms,  maples,  ash 
and  oak,  which  have  been  planted  at  large  expense  along 
city  streets  suffer  great  damage  yearly  from  insect  pests, 
their  beauty  is  lessened  by  these  attacks  and  in  number- 
less instances  their  death  is  brought  about. 

Beautiful  trees  in  a  city  represent  a  heavy  invest- 
ment, and  they  possess  a  cash  value  of  thousands,  yes, 
even  millions  of  dollars  in  any  town  or  city,  and  to  per- 
mit such  trees  to  be  ravaged  by  insects  should  not  be 
permitted,  since  the  comparatively  inexpensive  matter 
of  spraying  them  will  do  for  the  ornamental  tree  just 
what  is  accomplished  for  the  fruit  tree.  Its  healthfulness 
will  be  maintained,  its  beauty  will  be  enhanced,  its  value 
increased. 

Ornamental  trees  suffer  from  (1)  insects  which  chew 
the  foliage,  (2)  insects  which  suck  the  sap  from  leaf  and 
twig;  (3)  and  insects  which  bore  into  the  branches  and 
trunks.  The  first  two  classes  of  insects  can  be  con- 
trolled by  spraying  and  banding;  the  latter  can  be  con- 
trolled to  a  considerable  extent  by  digging  out  or  fumi- 
gating the  depredator. 


[  126  ]  Shade  Tree  Spraying 

High  Pressure  Needed 

The  spraying  of  shade  trees  requires  the  use  of  a 
spraying  outfit  that  will  produce  high  pressure  and  sup- 
ply a  large  volume  in  order  to  reach  the  tops  of  the  tall 
trees.  Beautiful  trees  in  most  instances  are  tall  and  in 
the  case  of  street  trees,  necessity  requires  that  they  be  tall 
enough  to  extend  their  canopy  of  foliage  well  above  the 
traffic.  In  many  instances  the  tops  of  stately  elm  and 
maples  will  tower  100  feet  from  the  street  level.  On 
that  account,  high  pressure  is  an  absolute  necessity  in 
order  that  the  spray  may  be  driven  to  the  maximum 
height.  But  not  infrequently  it  is  necessary  that  der- 
ricks, ladders,  and  even  considerable  nimble  climbing 
must  be  done  to  apply  the  spray  where  it  will  accom- 
plish the  desired  results  on  trees  of  great  height. 

Scale  Insects 

Of  the  sucking  insects  infesting  shade  trees,  there 
are  several  different  kinds  of  scales  which  cause  trouble, 
notably  the  San  Jose  scale.  This  minute  creature  may 
occur  in  such  vast  numbers  as  to  encrust  the  branches 
of  the  tree  or  shrub  and  either  bring  about  the  death  of 
the  tree  or  devitalize  it  to  such  an  extent  that  it  loses 
its  beauty.  The  cottony  scale  likewise  may  occur  in 
troublesome  numbers,  particularly  on  maples.  The 
oyster-shell  and  scurfy  scales  are  prevalent  on  many 
kinds  of  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs.  These  scales  fre- 
quently heavily  infest  the  elm,  which  seems  most  suscep- 
tible to  its  injuries. 

Aphis 

Aphis,  green,  black  and  woolly,  infest  many  kinds  of 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  where  they  cause  injury 
of  more  or  less  seriousness  and  at  the  same  time  dis- 
figure the  foliage  of  the  plants  as  well  as  soiling  with  the 
honey,  dew  which  they  secrete,  other  foliage,  the  grass 
under  the  infested  trees,  sidewalks  and  branches. 

CONTROL:  Scale  insects  are  controlled  by  the  use  of 
sprays  which  kill  the  insects  by  contact.  Lime-sulphur  and 


Shade  Tree  Spraying  [  127  ] 

soluble  oils  are  best  for  the  scale  insects,  and  application 
should  be  made  during  the  winter  months  while  the  trees  are 
dormant  and  leafless.  Aphids  are  controlled  by  nicotine  sul- 
phate, which  must  be  applied  early  in  the  season  when  the 
aphids  make  their  first  appearance.  The  spraying  must  be 
done  with  thoroughness,  so  as  to  wet  the  bodies  of  all  of  the 
insects,  otherwise  the  results  will  not  be  satisfactory.  Nicotine 
sulphate  can  be  added  to  the  arsenate  of  lead  spray  used  for 
foliage  chewing  insects,  and  in  that  way  both  kinds  may  be 
controlled  with  a  single  application. 

Chewing  Insects 

This  class  of  insects  includes  those  which  eat  the 
foliage  of  trees  and  shrubs,  of  which  some  of  the  most 
troublesome  on  street  and  park  trees  are  the  canker  worm, 
tussock  moth,  elm  leaf  beetle,  web  worm,  tent  cater- 
pillar, bag  worm,  gipsy  and  brown  tail  moths.  Havoc 
is  not  infrequently  created  by  one  or  more  of  these  pests, 
and  street  and  shade  trees  of  great  beauty  often  are  de- 
foliated by  one  or  more  of  these  pests.  Usually  these 
insects  have  a  preference  for  certain  kinds  of  trees  and 
will  work  on  those  trees  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others. 
This  is  especially  true  of  the  canker  worm  and  elm  leaf 
beetle,  which  prefer  the  elm  to  all  other  trees.  The  tus- 
sock caterpillar  feeds  on  almost  every  kind  of  tree  except 
on  firs,  but  is  especially  troublesome  on  the  soft  maple, 
birch,  linden  and  horse  chestnut. 

CONTROL:  Because  of  the  habit  of  these  insects  eating 
the  foliage  of  the  trees,  a  poison  of  some  kind,  such  as  arsenate 
of  lead,  applied  to  the  leaves  before  the  insects  have  become 
numerous,  will  poison  them  and  thus  prevent  the  damage  that 
would  otherwise  occur.  Such  applications  should  be  made  in 
early  spring  when  about  one-third  of  the  leaves  have  unfolded 
and  if  a  later  invasion  of  such  insects  appears  the  application 
should  be  repeated. 


f>t*BS»  Or  J.    P.    BLACK   A  CO,,    OHfOACO 


